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Thanks Dave!,
I have used your trick with the EZ out (after lots
of careful drilling with cobalt drills) on the number two stud of the
cilinderhead, and with great success!
Unfortunately one cannot get access to the last
stud without pulling the head..
But the manifold is OK with 5 nuts instead of 6,
tested it during a 30 miles "testdrive" this afternoon :)
And the new starter motor, supplied by Tom Scott,
gives me confidence that the engine will turn over when I try to start it
:)
Rob
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, May 18, 2007 9:43 PM
Subject: Re: IML: Imp back on the road
and a big thank you to the IML!
Rob, nothing makes us happier, than to know SOMEBODY has a mission
accomplished.With the wealth of experience, and knowledge availible here,
there's no reason not to "GET ER DONE" Dave.
--------------
Original message --------------
From: "Rob van der Es" <R.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Hi gang,
Just a short note to thank all of you that
helped me with giving good advice with regard to the broken exhaust manifold
stud of my 60.
Dave, Joe, Chad, Paul, Benjamin, Pete and all
the other that I have forgotten to mention:)
I decided to leave the last broken stud (driver
side, close to the firewall) alone, and try my luck with securing the
manifold with 5 nuts instead of 6.
Well, everything turned out well, no leaks or
whatsoever and the car is as quiet as before.
I will also give Tom Scott a big THANK YOU, for
helping me out with his spare starter motor!
Today I had the car back on the road and it was
a pleasure as always to drive it around town in nice sunny weather
:)
Thanks guys!,
Robert
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 10:55
PM
Subject: Re: IML: Problem with
exhaust manifold studs...
Rob, sorry I didn't realize you were "OVER THERE" and not in our back
yard. The reason for thread cutting oil,( which plumbers also use to
thread iron, and galvanized pipe), it has sulfur, and other additives, to
reduce friction, and dissipate the heat from drilling, or taping. Don't
use motor oil or other spray lubes, broken drill bits, and striped taps,
will result.Wish you well, Dave.
--------------
Original message --------------
From: "Rob van der Es"
<R.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Thanks again Dave,
I will find me a nice set of fresh Cobalt
drils then :)
Btw, what is the reason for only using
thread cutting oil?
Why not a little WD 40 or light engine oil
for e.g.?
I will ask the machine shop if they know
what an Easy Out is, I never heard of it before nor do I know if they
are available in the Netherlands..
Lucky enough I know for sure where to buy
Heli coils if I need them!
I will make sure to seal the studs with a
good sealer!
Thanks again,
Rob
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 8:27
PM
Subject: Re: IML: Problem with
exhaust manifold studs...
Rob, we've used Cobalt drill bits exclusively, with some cutting
oil as the lubricant.The studs are usually a grade 5, fairly hard, but
can be drilled, with cobalt.Medium speed, with lots of lube.(use ONLY
thread cutting oil)You will have to drill in progressive steps to
remove the stud. There's a chance you can use an "EASY-OUT" if you
drill to the max.The problem with the easy-out is,they tend to expand
the the remains of the stud/bolt, and impead the removal, and if you
were to break the easy out, then there's no hope.If you have to go
over-sized on the hole, use a HELI-COIL insert, seal the studs with
Leak-Lock sealer.You can find it at refrigeration supply houses.That
about it, except for luck.Dave
--------------
Original message --------------
From: "Rob van der Es"
<R.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Thanks Dave,
I like the idea of a 90 degree
drill!
I have a dremel and can attach a 90
degree device to it, and I hope that I can reach the last
stud.
Since the studs are heated up and
cooled down so often, will that make the studs softer or
harder?
Are there special drills available for
this kind of job then?
I don't know for sure if my skills are
good enough (the only way to find out is trying I am afraid..) but
at least I think that I have the patience.
Have a nice day too,
Rob
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007
6:03 PM
Subject: Re: IML: Problem
with exhaust manifold studs...
Rob, all I can say is the out-look is grim.Drilling the studs
out will take patients, and skill, with the drill.
The only way to access the back stud, would be a
90degree drill, with a helper with a good eye to keep you in
proper alignment. If you choose to use the remaining studs to hold
the manifold in place, keep in mind the manifold uses all the
studs to help transfer the heat from the manifold to
the cylinder head. Thats why there were no manifold gaskets on the
manifolds from the factory. The results may lead to a cracked
manifold, or exhaust leaks. In any event, I don't see an easy
fix.Ya'll have a nice day, Dave.
--------------
Original message --------------
From: "Rob van der Es"
<r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Hi Paul and the rest
of the IML gang,
>
> I need some expert advise
with regard to the exhaust manifold studs of my
> 1960
Imperial.
> For 10 days ago I broke the exhaust manifold
flange of the left manifold...
> I noticed a a roadbump
too late and was hitting it with too much speed,
> since
the whole exhaust system is pretty rigid the impact was given
> directly to the cast iron manifold..
>
>
With the restult that the flange has broken..
> I found
myself a reputable cast iron welder that has done the job many
> times before so with a little luck I will have my
manifold back early next
> week.
>
> But
now for the real problem: when taking the manifold off two studs
were
> bro ken....
> Despite of several overnight
soaking sessions with penetrating oil!
>
> The
number two stud (counting from the radiator) and the last stud
are
> broken and almost flush with the head.
>
Ofcourse I can try if the 4 remaining studs and bolts will
secure the
> manifold but I simply don't like the idea.
>
> On the otherhand, I either don't like the idea
of taking the head off.
> And at least the last stud is
very difficult (or not..) accessible with
> the head in
place.
> So maybe I should aim for the second stud to
come out.
>
> Both studs are almost flushed with
the head surface (slightly below
> actually).
> Is
there a safe way to get them out?
> Or should I try to
secure the manifold with the 4 remaining nuts and see
>
what happens?
>
> If this doesn't work out, how do
I remove those broken studs then?
> And where can I buy
new studs for my engine?
>
> Ofcourse I can try to
drill out the number two studs since I think I can
>
access this one from the left front wheel area (with the left
front wheel
> removed ofcourse).
>
> But
what if I screw up and the studs doesn't come out, since these
studs
> are in the cooling fluid area it is important
that I don't cause any
> leakage.
> If I break a
drill for e.g. while it is just through the center of the
> stud (if I am lucky..) and the broken part gets stuck,
cooling fluid will
> escape then!!
>
> So
should I go for the 4 studs fasting method first?
>
> Any words of whisdom??
>
> Thanks,
>
> Robert
> 1960 Imperial Crown
>
>
>
>
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