Here in Washington, we just had a serious freak accident on I-5. A large freight hauler flat bed truck lost one side pair of dual wheels. They came off, rolled into a van and killed the passenger. The picture of the truck showed the brake shoes, backing plate, and axle still intact on the truck. The picture of the loose dual wheels showed that nothing had come undone from the outside, and the drum was still attached to the inside wheel. I suspect that they might find that the axle nut broke, or possibly the cotter key used to lock it was left out. I don't know if modern big rigs still use tapered axles, but if any of them do, you can bet that they are a lot harder to remove than our older style Imperials.
Paul W. -----Original Message----- From: a1web@xxxxxxxxxxxxx To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Sent: Sat, 12 May 2007 12:26 PM Subject: Re: IML: Brake Drum Removal - 2 questions addressedThank you for your advise its all very good. First off the minute I heard what i thought was metal on metal in the rear I parked the car. So I am pretty sure there is no grove. Like i said i have applied all the advise that has been given to me. I have a impact wrench, i used it for so long that i feel Ive weekend the wrench. i don't see how the brake would be keeping the drum on since the wheel spins freely. i have backed off the adjustment screws. i welcome your help though bro i am curios at this point on how and what is keeping this drum from breaking free. i live in Santa Rosa ca. 3774 Kansas dr. i would like to meet another chrysler person in person. i never have. i have never even seen a car like mind in the 20 years ive had this one. It only has 40,000 miles on it . It had 26,000 when i bought it.
Kenyon Wills <imperialist1960@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: Mark, If your shoes are metal on metal, you have a potential problem. If the shoes were run that way for awhile, they might have gouged out furrows in the drum surface that would result in a trough that the shoes sit in. The wheel would spin freely, but the shoes would be inside of the gouge with a lip that would hook the edge of the brake pads that will keep the drum from sliding off. If the XXX is the shoe, you can see how the "wall" of metal (I) would prevent lateral motion if the shoe were down inside a valley that it had carved for itself. I IXXXI I I IXXXXXI I I___________I I___________I I presume that there is no hydraulic fluid in the line, but cutting the flex hose and releasing any pressure would be one step that should not be overlooked. There is an adjustment port on many models that has a star-wheel. These things get crudded up and often don't work well to back off the adjustment, but the star wheel or whatever adjuster there is to move the shoes closer to the drum should be backed off. Jumping off the roof is pretty inventive. I'm sure that you're one of the few people alive that has that in their resume, since it's pretty unorthodox, but my hat's off to you for coming up with that one. When you jumped on the breaker bar, you applied one strike on the threads in your attempt to spin the center part of the puller. This is opposite of how I see the tool being used best. I suggest that you throw away that dog-bone extension that you use with a hammer, and skip using all hand or manual tools. Move to a pneumatic or electric impact wrench. I have a crappy, old one that pulls these things off for me just fine, but there are newer, expensive ones that put out at least 1200 foot-pounds of torque: http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN_US/diy_main/pg_diy.jsp?CNTTYPE=PROD_META&CNTKEY=misc/searchResults.jsp&N=2984+3918&cm_mmc=hd_goog-_-SearchRedo-_-D-25X-_-bid20767702-impact_wrench These would presumably be rentable, so a visit to your local commercial tool rental place would be in order. The deal here is that the rotary wrench will apply repeated blows over time. You can sit and hold the trigger for 10 minutes if you have to, and apply hundreds of pounds of repeated blows in a very tight sequence. You can also repeatedly apply the pressure in a consistent way if you take breaks. I'm not much of a fan of the heat solution, but if you're holding the wrench and driving it while your buddy applies heat to the drum near the hub, you'd presumably expand the drum faster than the steel spindle. The blows would also work on any rust that's in there, breaking it free that way. Lastly, if the drum isn't removable, the axle certainly is, and at some point or another, you're going to have to make a decision. There are enough of this low-wear item around to make a replacement a viable path around something that you just can't get removed. Mark, I'm in your area and my offer to help remove your drum removal stands. I've done about 15 axles worth so far, and will help you if I can. sorry it's hanging you up so. -K --- Mark Battesby wrote:
Hi Don I live in california the northern area 60 miles north of san francisco. This is my second puller I snapped the first one in half after I put a extention bar on it and jumped off a ladder on it . 200 lbs from five feet . I have banged on it so much that I probably have damaged it . the rear brakes are on metel to metal so untill i change the shoes I really cant drive it. If i releast the e-bake the whell does spin . should i have it in gear or does that make a difference ? DON SAVARD wrote: Put the Hub puller as tight as you can without breaking/busting anything. Jack up the affected wheel and leave it alone. Check it once a week and retighten as necessary. Like Morgan Freeman said on Shawsank Redemption" Geology is a science of time and pressure". You are trying to break something free that has been setting up for years if not decades. Give it "time and pressure" and it will ultimately "pop" off. When all else fails-time and pressure. You've had this car for 20 years and it is an Imperial which proves you have patience. Don't get impatient yet. In what state (besides frustration) do you live? Imperially Don Savard ----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Battesby To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Sent: Friday, May 11, 2007 5:27 PM Subject: IML: 1961 chrysler imperial brake drum I wrote about a month ago asking how to get off a stuck rear brake drum. I was given allot of advise . Ive been very carefull to follow everyones ideas on how to get the drum off. First let me say that this car is in excellent condition and is garaged and driven all the time. It shows no rust or ware of anykind. Ive been trying for a month to get this drum to brake loose and so far nothing. Ive soaked it in tran fluid, I back off the nut a half inch and put the wheel back on and drove the heck out of it slamming on the brakes even doing burn outs and 180 degree spin outs . still nothing. Ive try banging on it while useing a impact wrench . Ive got the best puller money can buy what is left to do. What in heck is keeping this drum on . I am at the end of my wits. I am either going to sell the car that I have restored for the past 20 years or check myself into a mental hospital any final advise on this ??
Kenyon Wills _________________________________________________________________________ ___________Got a little couch potato? Check out fun summer activities for kids.http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mail&p=summer+activities+for+kids&cs=bz
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