Re: IML: Problem with exhaust manifold studs...

[<mopar413@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

I don't know why that works but it seems to.  You need to soak them tho with WD or some kind of liquid rust remover. When you do give it a hard tap to help draw the fluid in to the treads.   The screw should come right out.
> Well Joe,
> 
> That sounds like a nice idea to me!
> I have Dremel tool so I can make a slot in the broken studs, who are only just beneath the surface of the head 
> 
> But what I don't understand: why shall they come out with a screw driver now? After all, those studs are so thight in the head that they simple were broken when trying to remove the nuts.
> 
> So it is just hard to believe that I can simply screw them out with a screw driver.
> Maybe I can drive them out with some severe blows of a hammer, if I use the screwdriver as a chisel?
> Ofcourse after making a slot with my Dremel first.
> 
> THanks for your sharing your thoughts,
> 
> Robert
>   ----- Original Message ----- 
>   From: spicemanii@xxxxxxx 
>   To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
>   Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 6:51 PM
>   Subject: Re: IML: Problem with exhaust manifold studs...
> 
> 
>   As luck would have it, I have done broken exhaust studs in the past. Only once did I have to pull the head. 
>      What I came up with to remove the broken stud was to cut a slot in the broken stud, as it was broke off at the surface of the head. I slotted with a Dremel tool, a thin disc cutter and made a slot deep enough to use a short screw driver and used a vise grip on the blade and pushed hard into the stud and turned out the broken stud by rotating the vise grip and try to not slip out of the stud and break off any stud material. Make sure the screw driver blade is firm as possible inside the stud so as to not twist and become useless. I used WD 40 to loosen up the stud first, then did the job. Try to remove the WD 40 residue after soacking so the screw driver does not slip out. Try to keep it as dry as possible while unscrewing it. Not 100 %, but it has worked all the time, but once.  Joe Machado
> 
> 
>   -----Original Message-----
>   From: Rob van der Es 
>   To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>   Cc: Randalpark@xxxxxxx
>   Sent: Thu, 10 May 2007 6:51 am
>   Subject: IML: Problem with exhaust manifold studs...
> 
> 
> Hi Paul and the rest of the IML gang,
> 
> I need some expert advise with regard to the exhaust manifold studs of my
> 1960  Imperial.
> For 10 days ago I broke the exhaust manifold flange of the left manifold...
> I noticed a a roadbump too late and was hitting it with too much speed,
> since the whole exhaust system is pretty rigid the impact was given
> directly to the cast iron manifold..
> 
> With the restult that the flange has broken..
> I found myself a reputable cast iron welder that has done the job many
> times before so with a little luck I will have my manifold back early next
> week.
> 
> But now for the real problem: when taking the manifold off two studs were
> broken....
> Despite of several overnight soaking sessions with penetrating oil!
> 
> The number two stud (counting from the radiator) and the last stud are
> broken and almost flush with the head.
> Ofcourse I can try if the 4 remaining studs and bolts will secure the
> manifold but  I simply don't like the idea.
> 
> On the otherhand, I either don't like the idea of taking the head off.
> And at least the last stud is very difficult (or not..) accessible with
> the head in place.
> So maybe I should aim for the second stud to come out.
> 
> Both studs are almost flushed with the head surface (slightly below
> actually).
> Is there a safe way to get them out?
> Or should I try to secure the manifold with the 4 remaining nuts and see
> what happens?
> 
> If this doesn't work out, how do I remove those broken studs then?
> And where can I buy new studs for my engine?
> 
> Ofcourse I can try to drill out the number two studs since I think I can
> access this one from the left front wheel area (with the left front wheel
> removed ofcourse).
> 
> But what if I screw up and the studs doesn't come out, since these studs
> are in the cooling fluid area it is important that I don't cause any
> leakage.
> If I break a drill for e.g. while it is just through the center of the
> stud (if I am lucky..) and the broken part gets stuck, cooling fluid will
> escape then!!
> 
> So should I go for the 4 studs fasting method first?
> 
> Any words of whisdom??
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Robert
> 1960 Imperial Crown
> 
> 
> 
> 
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