The reason I'm not positive about what happened, other than him hitting the
carb with a wrench, is that I was inside the car trying to shut it off, thinking
that I might not have turned the key all the way to the stop position.
I've tried to follow any cables or wires near the carb and they all appear to be
fine and well connected. I'm going to do more work on it this weekend,
obviously, using the FSM and see if there's a glitch someplace. All the
advice I've gotten has sure given me places to look and I really appreciate
it.
As far as the carb itself is concerned, the problem lies in the flap on the
top. That flap is supposed to open when you hit the accelerator.
Mine will open manually, but not with the accelerator. The previous owner
told me I could get a kit at just about any parts store and get the flap.
Personally, I'd like to repair the one that's there because it looks just
fine. In the FSM, there are 3 different carb types, and I'm guessing,
since it's an Imperial with the largest engine produced by Chrysler Corp. that
year, that it's the AFB Series Carter Carburetor. I haven't dug into it
yet, as this electrical issue happened.
It still astounds me that the car got 16.67 MPG on the highway, with 89
octane gas (mine clanks and whines with 87), with that flap not working
properly.
Since I'll be working on it this weekend, any additional help will be
greatly appreciated.
Timothy Callaway
1965 Crown 4-door
Quoted from a previous post: > I'm surprised the red one ends up under the a/c. The negative cable > (usually black) is terminated somewhere around the a/c compressor. It > hooks directly to the engine. Is this cable connected to the negative > terminal on the battery? > I'm in the process of stripping a 66 Chrysler Town and Country wagon. It has factory A/C. At some point in the past 40 years the negative battery cable was replaced. The cable used was red. It is bolted to the engine using the forwardmost intake manifold bolt on the driver's side of the engine. Well, actually, not intake manifold bolt but the one forward of that. It's another threaded hole in the cylinder head, one used to hold the a/c compressor bracket to the head. As for the positive cable, I have yet to see one go directly from the battery to the starter relay. Someone is thinking FoMoCo. On every Mopar I've worked on the positive battery cable (defined as the thickest + cable) goes directly to the starter motor. However, a fairly large wire does go from the battery positive terminal to the starter relay. Another largish wire then goes from the relay to the starter. So the starter relay handles only starter SOLENOID current; starter MOTOR current is handled by the large cable going directly from the battery to the starter. I sounds to me like the main fusible link on the 65 melted at the same time the carburetor was attacked. Possibly the wiring harness on the inner fender got moved during the attack ;-) Pete in PA See what's free at AOL.com. |