From: "Stevan Miner" <miner@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: IML: electrical question. I hate electrical.
Date: Sun, 15 Apr 2007 22:48:10 -0500
Hi Kenyon,
I'd check for 12 volts at the positive side of the coil with the key on. If
there is 12 volts there, the car should start when you jump the starter
relay. You can at least verify that it will start by running a jumper
temporarily from the battery positive to the coil positive terminal. Make
sure the car is in park when you try this obviously. With the key held in
the start position, it should read at least close to battery voltage at the
starter relay terminal below the main battery cable connection. If not, I
would take a good look at the white plastic connector from your ignition
switch located on the lower portion of the steering column. I've had quite
a few of these melt and cause bad connections.
Stevan Miner
Miner Auto Service
Winnebago, MN
----- Original Message ----- From: "Kenyon Wills"
<imperialist1960@xxxxxxxxx>
To: "IML" <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, April 15, 2007 5:10 PM
Subject: IML: electrical question. I hate electrical.
72 coupe ran and drove fine.
Parked for 2 weeks. Now no start.
When key is turned, the SIGNAL SENTRY light lights up,
which is normal, as there is no oil pressure to trip
the switch that turns it off.
Turning the key further to just before starter relay
contact illuminates the BRAKE SYSTEM light, which may
be part of the diagnostic test of the bulb, or more
likely is because the booster is fried and has been.
I've put about 10 miles on the car with the BRAKE
SYSTEM light illuminated, and there is a new booster
and complete brake system awaiting the car in the
garage, so that is a known problem - should not be
related to the no-start problem.
Anyway, when the key is just a hair away from tripping
the starter relay, I get both lights that start solid
and then start to flicker agressivley before slowing
down and winking out. Both lights flicker on and off
with increasing frequency, and the entire fuse block
seems to be getting rapidly interrupted power, with
clicking as the relays are energized and then shorted
of power.
The wiring diagram shows that the relay making the
most noise at the fuse block is the power window relay
switch, and disconnecting it stops the flickering
current noise that is very audible in it, but I think
that is a symptom and not the problem, as the lights
continue to flicker on and off.
The symptom indicates to me that the ignition circuit
is flickering on/off, tending to off after starter
relay is connected and it heats up. I got a cough or
two out of the engine that coincided with the lamps
being illuminated in that second, but the thing is
dead otherwise. New engine, battery, etc. under the
hood.
Ignition switch?
Shorting the relay with the key in RUN does not start
the engine either, although it does turn over,
obviously.
I cleaned out the bulkhead connectors during engine
swap - do not suspect a corroded connection, and since
I've not touched wiring since driving it, do not
suspect a loose connection there.
Thoughts?
Kenyon Wills
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