Re: IML: Fwd: 62 Oil Pan -Good News & A Mystery Gets Deeper!

[sosmi@xxxxxxxxxxx]

Dave, you can install a rear seal on your back, without too much effort. The best seal to use is the FelPro 2947, 2 piece lip seal, you will also need to buy the old style rope seal kit to get the side seals for the seal bridge.You should also remove the trans dust cover to gain some finger room. Pulling the top part of the old rope seal will be the most difficult part of the operation.You will also need a helper to rotate the crank shaft, for removal, and installing the new seal.The most important thing, is to NOT scratch the seal surface on the crank. Lube the new seal with motor oil, and roll the new seal in.The FSM says to soak, or coat the side rail seals before installing, we soak the seals with a 50-50 mix of engine oil, and mineral spirits, for no more than a couple minutes. Longer then that, and the seal expands too much, and installation becomes impossible.We use a small dab of #2 permatex on the bottom of the seal bridge, to seal the metal to metal surface. ( NOT SI LICONE).Well this should give you an idea what you're headed for. Ya'll have a nice day, Dave.

 

-------------- Original message --------------
From: David Dimitriou <macedonxx@xxxxxxxxx>
I'm bringing a '62 back to life from a long sleep. I haven't determined yet what all I'll need to do to the motor. It runs fairly well now that I have gotten the fuel system cleaned up. I'm assessing the leaks and it's pretty obvious the rear main seal will need replaced. This is my first 413. Can you you sneak a rear main seal in on one of these guys? My FSM only tells how to do it with the crankshaft removed.

Thanks,
Dave

Duckie26626@xxxxxxx wrote:

 

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From: Duckie26626@xxxxxxx
Date: Mon, 2 Apr 2007 22:32:08 EDT
Subject: 62 Oil Pan -Good News & A Mystery Gets Deeper!
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Hi To All:  I Got Started Working on My 62 Imp This Last Weekend.  I Want to Let Everyone Know the Oil Pan Will Come Off With Out Pulling the Engine. Just Take Out the Lower Bolt/Studs Holding the Motor Mount  To the Frame And Lift the Front of the Engine About 2 Inches. I Comes Out Pretty Easy. But Be Careful If You Do It Like I Did! I Used a Floor Jack With a Short 2 X 4 to Lift Up on the Harmonic Balancer.

The Mystery of My (Rebuilt) Motor Deepens. When Working on My Engine Last Year I Noted I Had Unusual Brass Freeze Plugs. Now I Found the Oil Pick Up Tube Had Multiple Set of Pipe Wrench Marks Where It Had Been Taken Off and On. I Work at Trenton Engine And in the Late 60's I Was in Dept 88 V-8 Assembly Working Production. I Had the Job of Installing the Oil Pick-Up Pipes a Number Of Times. When You do Something Once Every 24 Seconds You Can Remember It Well. Anyway the Pipe Has the Original Tool Marks, Plus an Extra Set of Pipe Wrench Marks - Not of the Factory Type. So Now I Am Sure the Engine Got Rebuilt Some Time Early in It's Life. The Engine Has the Proper Stamped #,s on the Rods and Caps Showing the Cylinder Bore Positions. The Oil Pan Gasket Was Dry & Hard, Pretty Much Useless. The Oil Pan Had About 3/8 of a Inch of Semi-Hard Goo In It. The Rest of the Inside of the Lower End Looked Claen For Being 45 Years Old.  ;Now On To Replacing the Good Old Heads With the Soft Valve Seats.

Happy Imperialing and Safe to All !

Dave Van Buren

Trenton Engine Plant

"Your Car, My Engine"

             

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