Great, thanks for the big help. I tried a Chrysler Jeep dealership in
Exton, PA without success, but the parts guy asked if there was a part number
for it. My 5-56 Mopar parts book doesn't identify any fuel filter. it shows a
filter on a fuel pump along with the fuel pump part number only.
Roger
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, March 29, 2007 6:27
PM
Subject: Re: [Norton AntiSpam] Re: IML:
'55 hesitation
Roger I found the stone elements on e-bay . Give two days to go through
my boxes and I will get you the part number.
Cleaning out my old e-mails, I came upon this
one that is relative to my 55 Newport. I had to put on an inline fuel filter
and remove the glass bowl filter with the stone element. That did the trick
for me. I have tried to locate a new stone filter, but could not find one.
Any suggestions on where one gets one, and possibly how can a stone element
be cleaned?
Roger
55 Newport
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2006 11:43
AM
Subject: [Norton AntiSpam] Re: IML:
'55 hesitation
While all of this is absolutely true, if this were happening to my
'55 Imperial, I would clean/replace the "stone fuel filter", remove the
extra in line filter (as it could be actually restricting fuel flow),
and replace the fuel pump and flex-line. This is all assuming that
the car had been driven successfully before this happened and
since any recent work had been done. If not, then I would
also inspect & gap the duel ignition points.
All of these things should be done anyway. The problems with today's
fuels that Dick has described have caused fuel pump diaphragms on my cars
to prematurely go bad, with similar symptoms. The flex line is a likely
culprit. I mention the ignition points since a problem there can lead to
similar symptoms, and also, because while in the shop, the mechanic may
leave the ignition on (without the engine running) for an extended period,
while taking a phone call of a coffee break. This can lead to burned
contacts, and a very damaged point set. This happened to me while my car
was in the shop for a routine service. My car ran, but not quite
correctly. It took months to figure out, but the solution was
simple.
At least you have plenty of food for thought.
Paul W. -----Original
Message----- From: Dick Benjamin <dickb@xxxxxxxxx> To:
mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Sent: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 07:31:25
-0700 Subject: RE: IML: '55 hesitation
This definitely
sounds like fuel starvation to me. Given the occurrence in hot
weather, I suspect you may be having some vapor lock problems.
Modern gasolines are much more likely to develop vapor lock. Another
thing that will cause vapor lock, besides the obvious overheated fuel
line, is a pinhole leak in the fuel line from the tank to the pump.
These leaks are very hard to find because they don’t leak fluid enough to
spot or smell, but they do ingest air when the fuel pump is working,
producing a vacuum in that line. Any air in the lines at all will lead to
vapor lock much more readily than liquid fuel.
I’d approach the
problem in steps:
- Test your fuel
pump output. It should deliver a coffee can full of gas at idle within
about 15 seconds, and if you block the output line, it should produce at
least 3.5 PSI. This can be done with a hose, a coffee can, and a
vacuum gauge (which will also read pressure). Just start the
engine and let it idle with the hose on the pump outlet – the engine
will idle happily for long enough using the fuel in the float
bowl.
- If that result
is normal, then pressurize your fuel line from the pump back to the tank
– don’t exceed a few PSI as the tank can’t take it, but just a small
amount of pressure should show up any weak spots on the fuel line.
While you’re at it, replace all the fuel hose with SAE30R9 hose – the
older stuff isn’t able to stand the new oxygenates – in fact I’d do that
anyway, just to make sure. Just buying new hose at the auto parts
place may not get you the right stuff – check the marking on the
hose. Most stores still stock 30R7, although that is obsolete for
modern fuels.
- While you are
inspecting the fuel line, make note of any place where the fuel line is
passing near anything hot – especially the exhaust system, and in the
engine compartment, anything near the engine block. If you can, re-rout
the lines to where they will be cooled by the air stream, as far away
from a source of heat as you can get them.
- Some cars seems
to have great difficulty with this problem, and it is getting worse as
the EPA fiddles with the gas formula – you may have to break down and
install an electric booster pump – do it back at the tank area, as low
as you can mount it so that the pump will gravity feed from the tank,
and stay cool, but keep it safe from road debris. Outside the
frame rail, just in front of the rear wheel is usually a good
place. You can wire it so that it will only run when you flip a
hidden switch, but be sure to wire it through the ignition switch also,
so it will go off when you turn off the engine. This will also be
a big help to your beleaguered starter, having to crank that Hemi on 6
volts!
This problem
doesn’t show up on modern cars, because since sometime in the late 70s,
all cars have a vapor return line to the tank from the fuel pump, and
since the advent of EFI, cars have circulating fuel in great abundance
running through the lines all the time – the tank pump supplies about 5
times the needed quantity of gas, and a return line keeps the excess gas
circulating back to the tank, so the fuel in the supply line is always as
cool as the fuel in the tank. Next time buy an 81 with EFI – your
problems will be gone! ((or at least
different?!))
Dick
Benjamin
From:
mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Jim Poltrock Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 11:31
AM To:
mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: IML: '55
hesitation
Hi
all-
My ’55
sedan just started hesitating while at cruising speed. It is acting
as though it is momentarily starved for gas, then it runs fine, then
starved again. If I take my foot off the accelerator pedal and get
back on it runs fine again for a bit before it hesitates
again.
Since I got
her back on the road last fall she has run like a top. It still
starts and idles fine- no problems there. And the only time it
hesitates is when she is warm and running down the road. I installed
a new fuel filter and put a can of Seafoam in the tank (always filled w/93
octane). It has been warm here lately and I wonder if that has
anything to do with it. The carb was rebuilt last year and, like I
said, she has run fine up until now. I still have the stone filter
inline (for looks as the Wix pre-filters for it). The clear bowl is
only about 20% full while idling and the stone looks
clean.
Any
suggestions or input? I have really been enjoying driving the old
girl lately (gas prices be damned) and look forward to solving this riddle
ASAP. Thanks in advance for any help/direction on
this.
Jim
Poltrock
Salem,
WI.
’55
sedan
Wisteria
blue/rhapsody in blue
41k
miles
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