Re: [Norton AntiSpam] Re: IML: '55 hesitation

[randalpark@xxxxxxx]

I bought a new one from Carter, but that was years ago. Still might be 
worth a try. Are they still in business?

Paul W.

-----Original Message-----
From: rdc2382@xxxxxxxxxxx
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Thu, 29 Mar 2007 10:19 AM
Subject: Re: [Norton AntiSpam] Re: IML: '55 hesitation

Cleaning out my old e-mails, I came upon this one that is relative to 
my 55 Newport. I had to put on an inline fuel filter and remove the 
glass bowl filter with the stone element. That did the trick for me. I 
have tried to locate a new stone filter, but could not find one. Any 
suggestions on where one gets one, and possibly how can a stone element 
be cleaned?
 
Roger
55 Newport
 
----- Original Message -----
From: randalpark@xxxxxxx
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2006 11:43 AM
Subject: [Norton AntiSpam] Re: IML: '55 hesitation


While all of this is absolutely true, if this were happening to my '55 
Imperial, I would clean/replace the "stone fuel filter", remove the 
extra in line filter (as it could be actually restricting fuel flow), 
and replace the fuel pump and flex-line. This is all assuming that the 
car had been driven successfully before this happened and since any 
recent work had been done. If not, then I would also inspect & gap the 
duel ignition points.
 
All of these things should be done anyway. The problems with today's 
fuels that Dick has described have caused fuel pump diaphragms on my 
cars to prematurely go bad, with similar symptoms. The flex line is a 
likely culprit. I mention the ignition points since a problem there can 
lead to similar symptoms, and also, because while in the shop, the 
mechanic may leave the ignition on (without the engine running) for an 
extended period, while taking a phone call of a coffee break. This can 
lead to burned contacts, and a very damaged point set. This happened to 
me while my car was in the shop for a routine service. My car ran, but 
not quite correctly. It took months to figure out, but the solution was 
simple.
 
At least you have plenty of food for thought.
 
Paul W.  
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Dick Benjamin <dickb@xxxxxxxxx>
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Sat, 17 Jun 2006 07:31:25 -0700
Subject: RE: IML: '55 hesitation

This definitely sounds like fuel starvation to me.  Given the 
occurrence in hot weather, I suspect you may be having some vapor lock 
problems.  Modern gasolines are much more likely to develop vapor 
lock.  Another thing that will cause vapor lock, besides the obvious 
overheated fuel line, is a pinhole leak in the fuel line from the tank 
to the pump.  These leaks are very hard to find because they don’t leak 
fluid enough to spot or smell, but they do ingest air when the fuel 
pump is working, producing a vacuum in that line. Any air in the lines 
at all will lead to vapor lock much more readily than liquid fuel.
 
I’d approach the problem in steps:
 
* Test your fuel pump output. It should deliver a coffee can full of 
gas at idle within about 15 seconds, and if you block the output line, 
it should produce at least 3.5 PSI.  This can be done with a hose, a 
coffee can, and a vacuum gauge (which will also read pressure).  Just 
start the engine and let it idle with the hose on the pump outlet – the 
engine will idle happily for long enough using the fuel in the float 
bowl.
* If that result is normal, then pressurize your fuel line from the 
pump back to the tank – don’t exceed a few PSI as the tank can’t take 
it, but just a small amount of pressure should show up any weak spots 
on the fuel line.  While you’re at it, replace all the fuel hose with 
SAE30R9 hose – the older stuff isn’t able to stand the new oxygenates – 
in fact I’d do that anyway, just to make sure.  Just buying new hose at 
the auto parts place may not get you the right stuff – check the 
marking on the hose.  Most stores still stock 30R7, although that is 
obsolete for modern fuels.
* While you are inspecting the fuel line, make note of any place where 
the fuel line is passing near anything hot – especially the exhaust 
system, and in the engine compartment, anything near the engine block. 
If you can, re-rout the lines to where they will be cooled by the air 
stream, as far away from a source of heat as you can get them.
* Some cars seems to have great difficulty with this problem, and it is 
getting worse as the EPA fiddles with the gas formula – you may have to 
break down and install an electric booster pump – do it back at the 
tank area, as low as you can mount it so that the pump will gravity 
feed from the tank, and stay cool, but keep it safe from road debris.  
Outside the frame rail, just in front of the rear wheel is usually a 
good place.  You can wire it so that it will only run when you flip a 
hidden switch, but be sure to wire it through the ignition switch also, 
so it will go off when you turn off the engine.  This will also be a 
big help to your beleaguered starter, having to crank that Hemi on 6 
volts!
 
This problem doesn’t show up on modern cars, because since sometime in 
the late 70s, all cars have a vapor return line to the tank from the 
fuel pump, and since the advent of EFI, cars have circulating fuel in 
great abundance running through the lines all the time – the tank pump 
supplies about 5 times the needed quantity of gas, and a return line 
keeps the excess gas circulating back to the tank, so the fuel in the 
supply line is always as cool as the fuel in the tank.  Next time buy 
an 81 with EFI – your problems will be gone!  ((or at least 
different?!))
 
Dick Benjamin
 
--------

From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
[mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Jim Poltrock
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 11:31 AM
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: IML: '55 hesitation

 
Hi all-
 
My ’55 sedan just started hesitating while at cruising speed.  It is 
acting as though it is momentarily starved for gas, then it runs fine, 
then starved again.  If I take my foot off the accelerator pedal and 
get back on it runs fine again for a bit before it hesitates again.
 
Since I got her back on the road last fall she has run like a top.  It 
still starts and idles fine- no problems there.  And the only time it 
hesitates is when she is warm and running down the road.  I installed a 
new fuel filter and put a can of Seafoam in the tank (always filled 
w/93 octane).  It has been warm here lately and I wonder if that has 
anything to do with it.  The carb was rebuilt last year and, like I 
said, she has run fine up until now.  I still have the stone filter 
inline (for looks as the Wix pre-filters for it).  The clear bowl is 
only about 20% full while idling and the stone looks clean.
 
Any suggestions or input?  I have really been enjoying driving the old 
girl lately (gas prices be damned) and look forward to solving this 
riddle ASAP.  Thanks in advance for any help/direction on this.
 
Jim Poltrock
Salem, WI.
’55 sedan
Wisteria blue/rhapsody in blue
41k miles




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