Re: IML: Electroluminescent Dash Lighting

[randalpark@xxxxxxx]

If the lights don't work, there are other things that go wrong than 
that "box". A short in one lamp will keep the whole system from 
lighting up. An open circuit in one lamp will allow the others to light 
even while that one does not. Though rare, I have heard of the head 
light switch causing trouble.

Usually, if the "box" goes bad, the lights will come on initially, and 
then slowly/quickly dim out. A shorted lamp will keep them from coming 
on at all, unless the short is one of the meter needles. Yes, they are 
individual lamps themselves. Sometimes when one of them goes bad, the 
lights will come on until the needle moves to a certain spot, then all 
the lights will go out. The lamps have to be tested one at a time to 
find a short, with the system ON. All the wires are white and the 
connectors are red.

If you plan to keep this car, you should read the FSM, collect a few 
spare parts, obtain a supply of conductive glue, and have a spare 
"known to be good" transformer on hand at all times. It will greatly 
simplify trouble shooting and repair if you do.

Paul W.

-----Original Message-----
From: samiko3@xxxxxxxxx
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Tue, 13 Mar 2007 4:38 AM
Subject: Re: IML: Electroluminescent Dash Lighting

I tought that it should be 200-250v?
,Sami

> 110v is the STANDARD US electrical output, so probably the unit is 
ok, > but check input and output rates, then check the dash regulater. 
CJ.
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------ 

> From: /Sami <samiko3@xxxxxxxxx>/
> Reply-To: /mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx/
> To: /mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx/
> Subject: /IML: Electroluminescent Dash Lighting/
> Date: /Tue, 13 Mar 2007 11:47:54 +0200/
> >Hi all!
> >
> >I'm asking about this dash lighting. I take that "box" out and test
> >it on the table. I got only 110AC out, so can someone tell me what
> >is broken?
> >
> >Thanks a lot!
> >,Sami, Finland
> >
> >
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