Re: IML: Valve Cover Gaskets

It is neopreNe.

----- Original Message -----
From: aeyn
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: IML: Valve Cover Gaskets
Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2007 23:47:35 -0800 (PST)

I just remembered the name of the material - neopreme.

Æyn

--- aeyn wrote:

> That was the one I used on my S/W (I remembered that it was
> orange, but I could not remember the material.) and I wish that
> I
> could find so more. They were great and VERY resiliant.
>
> Æyn
>
>
> --- sosmi@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
>
> > At one time, Chrysler offered in the High Performance parts,
> an
> > orange silicone type valve cover gasket. It was a Hi-Temp
> type,
> > and reusable. I used them on our solid lifter race motors, as
> > well as other B-RB engines.It worked better then any other
> > gasket we tried . I'm looking for the PN. and will post it,
> if
> > I can find it.Ya'll have a nice day, Dave.
> > > -------------- Original message
> -------------- > From: randalpark@xxxxxxx > >
> > I totally agree with this approach. It has
> worked well for
> me
> > for over > > 35 years. > > > > Paul W. > >
> > > -----Original Message----- > > From:
> fljoslin@xxxxxxxx > > To:
> mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > > Sent: Tue,
> 13 Feb 2007 9:18 AM > > Subject: Re: IML:
> Fuselage cars > > > > The method you describe
> is what I have used for valve
> covers,
> > > > transmission pans and rear end covers.
> > > > > Clean both mating surfaces well and
> use a solvent (brake
> > cleaner) as > > the final step. Atta ch the gasket to the "non car" surface
> > using a good > > silicone sealer. Do not use any sealer on the "car"
> surface.
> > Attach the > > cover and torque down. I usually use a 1/4" drive socket
> for
> > these type > > of torque applications and go around about ten times at 1/4
> > turn each > > until it feels good. The small ratchet reduces the amount
> of
> > torque > > that you can apply. I know this is not very "scientific"
> but
> > I have > > changed a few trans, rear end and valve covers like this
> and
> > never had > > one leak. A good trick to remove any goop from the mating
> > surfaces is > > to use a wire brush. You need to be very careful if it is
> on
> > the "car > > side" so that you don't get anything into delicate areas.
> > However, if > > you have the valve cover, trans pan , rear end cover off, a
> > wire brush > > in a drill will make very quick work of any junk and not
> > damage > > anything. Just make sure you clean it well afterwards. If
> you
> > do follow > > the process of not applying any sealer to the car side of
> the
> > gasket, > > there should be nothing on the other surface to remove
> > anyway. > > > > I have seen many shops going to the no gasket, silicone
> > sealer only > > approach. I am not really sure why. I have seen these fail
> > (leak) and > > it makes it a real B***H to remove. Not only is the cover
> > stuck on such > > that you risk warping it to remove it, but the bolts can
> get
> > all gummed > > up and very difficult to remove and you have goo all over
> the
> > car side > > of the surfaces which is tough
> to remove. > > > & gt; > > ----- Original Message
> ----- > > From: randalpark@xxxxxxx > > To:
> mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > > Subject:
> Re: IML: Fuselage cars > > Date: Tue, 13 Feb
> 2007 10:41:21 -0500 > > > > > > I find that
> it works best to glue them (good > > quality
> rubber ones) in place in the valve > > cover,
> before installing the valve cover on the > >
> head. Occasionally, I have to tighten the
> bolts > > a little bit, but I haven't had any
> other > > problems. I have used this method
> several > > times. I also find it easier to
> deal with > > cleaning the valve cover rather
> than having the > > scrape the head. Although
> the surface must be > > cleaned, the less
> work I have to do on the > > head, hanging
> over the fender, the easier it is > > on my
> back. > > > > Paul W. > > > > -----Original
> Message----- > > From: mr85000@xxxxxxxxx > >
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > > Sent:
> Mon, 12 Feb 2007 8:42 PM > > Subject: Re:
> IML: Fuselage cars > > > > Have you tried to
> get rubber cover gaskets? I purchased
> some
> > in > > 1980 for my 1972 Custom Suburban S/W
> with a 400 in it. > > > > I am going to see
> if I can get some for my 75's 440.
> RockAuto
> > has > > them FEL-PRO Part # VS50145R Rubber coated fiber gaskets
> > $14.40 > > > > > > Ã?â? yn & Patrick > > >
> > --- Brad Weikert wrote: > > > > > > > > On
> Feb 12, 2007, at 6:30 PM, Kenyon Wills wrote:
> > > > > > > > Aside from a valve cover that
> refuses to seal despite > &g t; > > four tries...
> > > > > > > If you haven't tried it already
> you might want to try a
> > Fel-Pro > > > blue > > > stripe cork gasket
> and install it with NO sealant. That's
> > how > > > I > > > finally stopped the valve covers from leaking on my '73
> > 440. > > > As the > > > oil soaks into the cork the cork will expand and
> > (hopefully) > > > seal the > > > leaks. > >
> > > > > Brad > > > > > > > > > > >
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Fred Joslin