Re: IML: 66LeBaron-..IT's ALIVE!...sort of

[<dansgarage@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi dick...thanks for the info as that is the simplest way (that I can think of) to determine if the gauge itself is causing part or all of the problem. I am going to move the wires near the ballast resistor again and then try the ignition switch again; then, remove (again) the firewall connector and replace it to see if THEN the ignition will work; next is to do just what you suggest.....take the two large wires (RED & BLACK that are connected to the Ammeter and put them together and see what happens next!
thanks again!!...hopefully, we'll get together and I'll meet 'Rich' in the very near future!!!!
Dan



---- Dick Benjamin <DickB@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: 

=============
Dan, just to make sure you understand, the ammeter performs TWO functions:

One, it gives you an indication of how much current is flowing through it, 
and
Two, it provides a path for power to all the items in the car that are wired 
to the output side of the ammeter.

The reason I mention this is: The fact that the ammeter is stuck on "charge" 
is not important, other than the loss of the indication function.  It does 
not affect the operation of the car in any way, so long as the continuity 
through the ammeter terminals is OK.

The way to eliminate the ammeter from further concern is to move one or the 
other of the #10 wires so that they share the same post on the ammeter - 
this way you KNOW there is continuity there, and you can proceed to look 
elsewhere for your gremlins.  You will disable the ammeter indication 
function, but that is already gone anyway.

Dick


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <dansgarage@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 11:33 AM
Subject: Re: IML: 66LeBaron-..IT's ALIVE!...sort of


Hi All....Well, quite a few members have said the same thing...GREAT THAT 
THE CAR IS WORKING, DAN, BUT THE PROBLEM WAS NOT THE BALLAST 
RESISTOR!......Most comments center on the Ammeter gauge...while messing 
under the dash, I did check the RED and BLACK wires on the back of the 
gauge...thinking back, now, on what I saw its probable that when I was 
trying to make SURE that the connectors for these two wires were NOT 
touching each other I may have moved one 'just-a-little'bit' which was 
enough to remove the otherwise shorted gauge. It looks like the connector 
for the RED wire was put on at the factory and tightened down in such a 
fashion that its insulated connector is either touching the connector for 
the BLACK wire or has , over the years, worn a sport thru the RED wires 
insulation which caused the short......Of course it could have been 
something else that was moved around a bit when I was under there that did 
the trick......anyone who has tried to troubleshoort an 'intermittant' 
problem knows what fun it can be!!!!!! Well, next step is to try and loosen 
up that gauge connection and move the connector around so its as far away 
(!!!!!) from the BLACK wires connection as possible!...we'll see how my back 
holds up from being twisted into a pretzel (aren't undr-dash problems 
fun??)....but I think I still will be needing a gauge!

Thanks everyone for all your help, suggestions and comments!!!!
Dan melnik




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