Brad,Thanks for the suggestion although it has me puzzled. I was under the impression that when electrical systems went from 6V to 12V in the mid-50s, the ignition systems were kept at around 6V to avoid having to beef up the points. If there is still supposed to be 12V across open points, then you're going to have much greater arching across those points as they close hence the damage that I've observed. Wouldn't 6V across those open points produce less arching and therefore less damage?
Jeff '56 Sedan Trenton, NJ From: Brad Weikert <a292@xxxxxxx> Subject: Re: IML: 56 Ignition Problem Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2007 09:39:29 -0700 Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Check the voltage with the points closed. With the points open no current is flowing through the coil and therefore there will be 12 volts to the coil and points regardless of how much resistance the ballast has. The voltage drop will only take place while current is flowing through the resistor. With the points closed check the voltage at the positive terminal of the coil to see what the actual voltage drop is. A bad condenser would also cause a weak spark and excessive arcing on the points, drastically reducing their life. Brad On Feb 5, 2007, at 8:19 AM, Jeff Cantor wrote:
I've determined that the primary cause of my poor performance recently is burnt points and a dyeing coil. Some investigating has lead me to believe that the route cause of these problems is that, while running, the ignition system is getting the full battery voltage of 12V rather than the 6-8V that is is designed for. My question for the group is where to go to correct this problem. The first and most obvious culprit would be the coil or ballast resistor but both the original one and a replacement I installed appear to have approximately the correct resistance and produce the same result (12V across the open points when the key is in the one position). This leads me to believe that whatever part of the system that is supposed to switch between providing 12V when starting and 6-8V when running is not making that transition correctly. But what part is that? Based on the wiring diagram in the FSM, it looks like power to the coil resistor goes through both the starter and horn relays as well as the ignition switch. Which one of these makes the transition? Thanks, Jeff '56 Sedan Trenton, NJ
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