RE: IML: 56 Ignition Problem
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RE: IML: 56 Ignition Problem



Brad,

Thanks for the suggestion although it has me puzzled. I was under the impression that when electrical systems went from 6V to 12V in the mid-50s, the ignition systems were kept at around 6V to avoid having to beef up the points. If there is still supposed to be 12V across open points, then you're going to have much greater arching across those points as they close hence the damage that I've observed. Wouldn't 6V across those open points produce less arching and therefore less damage?

Jeff
'56 Sedan
Trenton, NJ


From: Brad Weikert <a292@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: IML: 56 Ignition Problem
Date: Mon, 5 Feb 2007 09:39:29 -0700
Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Check the voltage with the points closed.  With the points open no
current is flowing through the coil and therefore there will be 12
volts to the coil and points regardless of how much resistance the
ballast has.  The voltage drop will only take place while current is
flowing through the resistor.  With the points closed check the voltage
at the positive terminal of the coil to see what the actual voltage
drop is.

A bad condenser would also cause a weak spark and excessive arcing on
the points, drastically reducing their life.

Brad


On Feb 5, 2007, at 8:19 AM, Jeff Cantor wrote:


I've determined that the primary cause of my poor performance recently
is burnt points and a dyeing coil.  Some investigating has lead me to
believe that the route cause of these problems is that, while running,
the ignition system is getting the full battery voltage of 12V rather
than the 6-8V that is is designed for.  My question for the group is
where to go to correct this problem.

The first and most obvious culprit would be the coil or ballast
resistor but both the original one and a replacement I installed
appear to have approximately the correct resistance and produce the
same result (12V across the open points when the key is in the one
position).  This leads me to believe that whatever part of the system
that is supposed to switch between providing 12V when starting and
6-8V when running is not making that transition correctly.  But what
part is that?  Based on the wiring diagram in the FSM, it looks like
power to the coil resistor goes through both the starter and horn
relays as well as the ignition switch.  Which one of these makes the
transition?

Thanks,
Jeff
'56 Sedan
Trenton, NJ



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