IML: Lock set info

[sosmi@xxxxxxxxxxx]

I found in some of my NOS Chrysler stuff, lock sets for, I suspect 72 and newer product, Ignition, Doors and Trunk. These are Chrysler, and have the original Record and destroy tags on the keys. I don't have any Pn's,  were complete lock sets sold, or not? Dave.

 

-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Chris Strohmeyer" <chrisstroh@xxxxxxxxxxx>

> That AMP gauge makes me suspicious because if that connection is bad,
> nothing will happen when trying to start it. That or the neutral safety
> switch would do the same thing. I have missed part of this thread, so that
> may have been covered by others.
> My experience has been, even if you think you've found an obvious problem
> and fixed it, it inevitably is NOT it. It can be frustrating.
> Chris
> 67 Imperial Convertible
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 4:02 AM
> Subject: IML: It may be ALIVE But I would Still Be Looking!
>
>
> >I still think that there is a dir ty/loose connection or a corroded wire in
> >there someplace.
> >
> > I never am satisfied when something starts working again while I feel I
> > haven't found the correct problem. That usually means that it will happen
> > again, and usually when it is the most inconvenient. I carry a wire kit
> > with alligator clips with me for those situations. On my '68, an
> > occasional no start problem turned into a NEVER start problem suddenly one
> > day out in the boonies. The small wire that goes from the relay directly
> > to the starter apparently either broke inside the cloth conduit or is
> > corroded. Once I bypassed it with a jumper. The car started just fine, and
> > has ever since. On that car, I could hear the relay click, but nothing at
> > the starter.
> >
> > Same thing with the '60 LeBaron, only with that car it was the neutral
> > safety switch. There was no click anyplace.
> >
> > Like Chris says, that resistor is bypassed during cranking, so it
> > shouldn't have caused a "nothing" situation when the key was turned. You
> > should have at least been able to crank the engine. If you study the
> > wiring diagram you may find something that tells us otherwise, but I just
> > don't think so. I think you have experienced a weird coincidence. If you
> > changed the resistor and the ignition switch and they were both bad, I
> > suppose that problem could have been cured, but who knows.
> >
> > If it was mine, I'd still be leery and looking for another problem. At
> > least carry a wire kit w/some alligator clips. That might save you. On the
> > cars that I drive regularly, I have gotten pretty good at knowing where
> > things might happen, and how to get spark or juice to the sta rter when the
> > proper avenues have failed. After getting a letter from AAA complaining
> > that 26 tow jobs in one year was too many, I reminded them that the car
> > was always towed to an AAA authorized facility, and NONE of them were able
> > to find the true problem with my electronic ignition, even though the car
> > ran fine when I picked it up (after paying a $200.00 repair bill each
> > time). One day it wouldn't run for me at home, so I dug in. I found a
> > corroded connector between the ignition module and the distributor. That
> > was the second place I looked. The car has run flawlessly for the last
> > five years. They're trained mechanics, and I am a commercial banker. Go
> > figure.
> >
> > Paul W.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: dansgarage@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> > To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > > Cc: chrisstroh@xxxxxxxxxxx
> > Sent: Mon, 5 Feb 2007 11:35 PM
> > Subject: Re: IML: 66LeBaron-turn the key...IT's ALIVE!
> >
> > Hi Chris...and thanks for the reply. I don't understand what was going on
> > (or
> > NOT going on) with the old ballast but when I turned the key I got
> > NOTHING!
> > ..the starter didn't even 'click' or 'whine' or anything! But....I'm VERY
> > glad I
> > got it working again before replacing some expensive items while
> > troubleshooting!!!
> > Thanks again!!
> > Dan Melnik
> >
> >
> > ---- Chris Strohmeyer wrote:
> >
> > =============
> > I've had a little experience on the ballast. The ballast must have been
> > "open" or in other words burned in two. The ballast cuts the voltage to
> > the
> > coi l only while the car is RUNNING. When you turn the key to crank and
> > start the engine, the ballast is bypassed with a full 12 volts to the coil
> > to make the spark hotter for ease of starting, Once you let off the
> > starter
> > the ballast resistor takes over supplying 8-10 volts to the coil and saves
> > your points from burning. So with the ballast not working the engine would
> > have tried to start but wouldn't because once you let go of the starter
> > there would be NO voltage going to the coil because of the faulty ballast
> > resistor.
> >
> > Hope this helps,
> >
> > Chris
> > 67 Imperial Convertible
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From:
> > To:
> > Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 9:46 PM
> > Subject: Re: IML: 66LeBaron-turn the key...IT's ALIVE!
> >
> >
> >> Hi All! Just wanted to thank everyone who offered their help and
> > comments
> >> on this problem with my 66 LeBaron!!
> >> Well, I finally got it fixed!!!! I spent the afternoon crawling
> > around
> >> under the dash (definitely NOT a fun experience for anyone over
> >> 6ft!...gonna have some sore muscles tomorrow!) looking for the
> > connection
> >> that goes to the Ammeter....I was sure it was the gauge or the
> > ignition
> >> switch!...... Ha!.......The ignition switch and lock-cylinder needed
> > to be
> >> changed anyway as the key never did sit 'just right' in the cylinder
> > from
> >> when I got the LeBaron. I now have one more key to carry around but
> > thats
> >> OK ! Just before it started g etting dark I was ready to throw in the
> > towel
> >> for the day but decided to change one more thing, just since I had
> > gotten
> >> a new one at the parts stroe and figured 'what the heck! Since i have
> > it,
> >> I may as well put it in!'...so I changed the Ballast Resistor.....
> > and the
> >> car started right up!!!! I have looked thru the wiring diagrams but
> > still
> >> don't understand how this Ballast Resistor caused the condition I was
> >> experiencing.....!?
> >> Oh well, at least the car is running now. I still have to change the
> >> POSITIVE battery cable to the starter, but that needed to be changed
> >> (replaced) anyway....plus with all the messing around with that cable
> > (on
> >> and off) the past few days, the end that goes on the battery terminal
> > has
> >> gotten, shall we say, 'worse for wear'..! Anyway, thats a job for
> > tomorrow
> >> or ..?? I do know that I will DEFINITELY keep a spare Ballast
> > Resistor in
> >> the trunk from now on for each of my Imperials!!!....which, if I
> > remember
> >> right, is something that several IMl members have strongly suggested
> >> anyway!!!!
> >> I do want to thank you all very much for your help! .....Hopefully, I
> > can
> >> now move on to meeting with Dick Benjamin and having his friend
> > (Rich) let
> >> me know what a good repaint of the LeBaron will set me back!!!
> >>
> >> I think I will be looking for a Ammeter Gauge!!! (its STILL showing
> > in the
> >> CHARGE zone and apprears to be stuck...hope its just temporary!
> >>
> >> Thanks again!
> >> Dan Melnik.
> >>
> >>
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> >
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