I still think that there is a dirty/loose connection or a corroded wire in
there someplace.
I never am satisfied when something starts working again while I feel I
haven't found the correct problem. That usually means that it will happen
again, and usually when it is the most inconvenient. I carry a wire kit
with alligator clips with me for those situations. On my '68, an
occasional no start problem turned into a NEVER start problem suddenly one
day out in the boonies. The small wire that goes from the relay directly
to the starter apparently either broke inside the cloth conduit or is
corroded. Once I bypassed it with a jumper. The car started just fine, and
has ever since. On that car, I could hear the relay click, but nothing at
the starter.
Same thing with the '60 LeBaron, only with that car it was the neutral
safety switch. There was no click anyplace.
Like Chris says, that resistor is bypassed during cranking, so it
shouldn't have caused a "nothing" situation when the key was turned. You
should have at least been able to crank the engine. If you study the
wiring diagram you may find something that tells us otherwise, but I just
don't think so. I think you have experienced a weird coincidence. If you
changed the resistor and the ignition switch and they were both bad, I
suppose that problem could have been cured, but who knows.
If it was mine, I'd still be leery and looking for another problem. At
least carry a wire kit w/some alligator clips. That might save you. On the
cars that I drive regularly, I have gotten pretty good at knowing where
things might happen, and how to get spark or juice to the starter when the
proper avenues have failed. After getting a letter from AAA complaining
that 26 tow jobs in one year was too many, I reminded them that the car
was always towed to an AAA authorized facility, and NONE of them were able
to find the true problem with my electronic ignition, even though the car
ran fine when I picked it up (after paying a $200.00 repair bill each
time). One day it wouldn't run for me at home, so I dug in. I found a
corroded connector between the ignition module and the distributor. That
was the second place I looked. The car has run flawlessly for the last
five years. They're trained mechanics, and I am a commercial banker. Go
figure.
Paul W.
-----Original Message-----
From: dansgarage@xxxxxxxxxxxx
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Cc: chrisstroh@xxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Mon, 5 Feb 2007 11:35 PM
Subject: Re: IML: 66LeBaron-turn the key...IT's ALIVE!
Hi Chris...and thanks for the reply. I don't understand what was going on
(or
NOT going on) with the old ballast but when I turned the key I got
NOTHING!
..the starter didn't even 'click' or 'whine' or anything! But....I'm VERY
glad I
got it working again before replacing some expensive items while
troubleshooting!!!
Thanks again!!
Dan Melnik
---- Chris Strohmeyer <chrisstroh@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
=============
I've had a little experience on the ballast. The ballast must have been
"open" or in other words burned in two. The ballast cuts the voltage to
the
coil only while the car is RUNNING. When you turn the key to crank and
start the engine, the ballast is bypassed with a full 12 volts to the coil
to make the spark hotter for ease of starting, Once you let off the
starter
the ballast resistor takes over supplying 8-10 volts to the coil and saves
your points from burning. So with the ballast not working the engine would
have tried to start but wouldn't because once you let go of the starter
there would be NO voltage going to the coil because of the faulty ballast
resistor.
Hope this helps,
Chris
67 Imperial Convertible
----- Original Message -----
From: <dansgarage@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2007 9:46 PM
Subject: Re: IML: 66LeBaron-turn the key...IT's ALIVE!
Hi All! Just wanted to thank everyone who offered their help and
comments
on this problem with my 66 LeBaron!!
Well, I finally got it fixed!!!! I spent the afternoon crawling
around
under the dash (definitely NOT a fun experience for anyone over
6ft!...gonna have some sore muscles tomorrow!) looking for the
connection
that goes to the Ammeter....I was sure it was the gauge or the
ignition
switch!...... Ha!.......The ignition switch and lock-cylinder needed
to be
changed anyway as the key never did sit 'just right' in the cylinder
from
when I got the LeBaron. I now have one more key to carry around but
thats
OK ! Just before it started getting dark I was ready to throw in the
towel
for the day but decided to change one more thing, just since I had
gotten
a new one at the parts stroe and figured 'what the heck! Since i have
it,
I may as well put it in!'...so I changed the Ballast Resistor.....
and the
car started right up!!!! I have looked thru the wiring diagrams but
still
don't understand how this Ballast Resistor caused the condition I was
experiencing.....!?
Oh well, at least the car is running now. I still have to change the
POSITIVE battery cable to the starter, but that needed to be changed
(replaced) anyway....plus with all the messing around with that cable
(on
and off) the past few days, the end that goes on the battery terminal
has
gotten, shall we say, 'worse for wear'..! Anyway, thats a job for
tomorrow
or ..?? I do know that I will DEFINITELY keep a spare Ballast
Resistor in
the trunk from now on for each of my Imperials!!!....which, if I
remember
right, is something that several IMl members have strongly suggested
anyway!!!!
I do want to thank you all very much for your help! .....Hopefully, I
can
now move on to meeting with Dick Benjamin and having his friend
(Rich) let
me know what a good repaint of the LeBaron will set me back!!!
I think I will be looking for a Ammeter Gauge!!! (its STILL showing
in the
CHARGE zone and apprears to be stuck...hope its just temporary!
Thanks again!
Dan Melnik.
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