Imperial Sedans were once again built for 1967, 1968, and 1969.Any car that is not in regular use is subject to unexpected failures. Brake failure is common, so it is always recommended that fluid levels and system functionality be checked before moving the gear selector into DRIVE. If intuition says that the brakes don't feel right, DO NOT DRIVE THE CAR. Turn it off and check the fluid level. If the level isn't low, and the brakes don't feel right, the car shouldn't be driven until the source of trouble is discovered and corrected.
A common cause of sudden brake failure such as this would be a split front brake hose. These hoses move around with the front wheels via suspension and steering maneuvers. If they are brittle, a split is likely and will allow the fluid to leak. Having a dual reservoir m/c should prevent total brake failure under this scenario. In fact, if rear brakes are in top shape, loss of the front brake system may not be obvious. This actually is a very dangerous thing since the driver may continue running the car without any idea that something is very wrong. Later systems incorporate a warning light to alert the driver of a lack of system pressure.
The most common cause of this in old cars is insufficient fluid in the reservoir due to gradual seepage from old parts which have not totally failed. A casual inspection of the braking system may not reveal this. That is why regular inspection of the fluid level itself is VITAL. Inspecting the fluid level regularly will indicate a gradual leak or a sudden leak which can be diagnosed prior to driving the car, and possibly finding out about it the hard way. I had an experience with someone who never checked their brake fluid, suddenly had no brakes, discovered a dry m/c, but couldn't find the leak. It turned out the leak was a slow leaking wheel cylinder. The brake failure could have been prevented by monitoring the fluid level and seeking out the offending wheel cylinder.
Paul W. -----Original Message----- From: twolaneblacktop@xxxxxxxxxxx To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Sent: Sat, 6 Jan 2007 11:14 PMSubject: IML: '68 brakes - Worked fine one day, next time pedal to the floor...
Greetings all,Happy New Year to all! I hope things are going well for everyone so far.
As some of you may know, I recently acquired a ’68 Crown 4dr hardtop (did they make the sedan in ’68?) from Kate Triplett. The car in pretty decent shape actually, needs some TLC, but nothing really major. I had driven the car previously for a sale to a gentleman who did not follow through. I was really impressed with it at the time and said so.
The car does have the Budd disk brakes and in all my experience with this car previously, they worked swell, stopped strait, and I did have the rotors, calipers checked soon after buying the car by my mechanic who is familiar with them. We planned on keeping a close eye on the pads and replacing them when needed. When I say needed, I mean very conservatively so, as to never jeopardize the integrity of the disks or rotors.
I had been driving the car about recently and all seemed well until about 2 weeks ago. I got in the car one day and fired her up. I put my foot on the brake to put the car in neutral as I always do with a Torqueflite. The pedal went almost to the floor, or so it seemed, but I just thought it was me, as it is not my daily driver. The car stopped at the gate to my condo garage, but the pedal was pretty much to the floor. I then became very cautious and pulled out onto an empty street and took her up to about 20 mph and put on the brakes. The pedal went strait to the floor. Thunk! The car did stop, but pumping did not help, and I turned her around and got her back into the garage right away, my left foot on the parking brake the whole way…just in case.
As I just had the brakes checked and all seemed well, could this be due to a wheel cylinder (or two) that suddenly started leaking? I am baffled and don’t have funds to fix it at present. I put this out to you all for your input as to what may be the cause. If anyone has had a similar experience, please let me know. The wheel cylinders are rebuild-able, are they not?
This is my first Imperial with the Budd disks and they make me nervous. Yeah, probably do work better than four drum brakes, but at least I knew what to expect with those! LOL! This will be a new learning experience for me. The car is otherwise very solid and smooth riding, quiet, except for the exhaust leak.
Thanks. Mikey Sutton and Dick B., please feel free to jump in at any time!
Bill Wm. R. Ulman Seattle, WA'68 Imperial Crown 4 dr. Hardtop (Miss Lucille Ball) - WA State Vanity Plates: FIT4AQN
twolaneblacktop@xxxxxxxxxxx [Image Removed] ________________________________________________________________________Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more.
----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com ----------------- This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm