Bill, I don't know who posted that note, but I do not recognize the advice or the part name. 16MPG is at the low end of normal for mileage with around town driving - you should do better on a trip, if your car is in a good state of tune. Ours gets around 18 in town driving, with fairly vigorous driving, using premium gas (91-92 octane). Try this: find a flat, level road that is straight for at least a mile or two, switch your display to MPG readout, accelerate to 55 MPH before you enter the "test area" and hold it there steady without wiggling your foot (or else use the cruise control) and make two runs, one in each direction. After the car reaches 55 mpg, it should hold pretty steady at around 27 to 28 MPG as an average on a flat road, if you have the right size tires on it (205/70R15s). If you have larger tires, it will read lower (although you are actually going faster than your speedometer indicates, so you are getting as good or better fuel mileage, but the computer won't know it). For instance, if you have 215/70R15s, run it at 52.5 MPH indicated, and add 5% to your MPG readout. If it's lower than that, there are some things you can check, but don't bother about it unless you know it's really below par. The main rule with these cars is "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"! These are sort of in the order of difficulty and likelihood of helping: . #1 is to make sure your transmission is going into lockup at 44 or so MPH (you should faintly feel a shift into what feels like a 4th gear, somewhere in the mid 40s, at light throttle). #2 is to make sure your initial timing is set at 12 BTC #3 is to get a new air filter element if you cannot see sunlight clearly through your old one #4 is to make sure your tires are at 30 PSI or higher #5 is to get a meter and check your EFI Coolant sensor readings (correct values are on the IML site) #6 is to perform the "runs with lid off" routine as given on the IML site and visually check for plumbing problems - leaks in the HSA plumbing, and that all 8 nozzles are spraying fuel. #7 is to put in a new set of spark plugs, a new O2 sensor, new plug wires, rotor and cap. Dick Benjamin P.S. The method to switch to plain text was given here on the IML by some other folks a couple of times in the last few days - you should be able to find it by looking back over the weeks postings. ________________________________________ From: Bill Longest Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2006 10:07 AM To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: Re: IML: part for 1983 EFI car Dick, Thank you for responding. I will have someone that knows something about computers look at my e-mail before I post anything else. I have no idea how to change it. I was reading on the club website under Fuel injection, "running rich" that if you were cruising on the highway and floored the accelerator and there was a hesitation that the "anti stall valve was bad'. I was hoping that this was something everyone knew but me. (ha). I attempted this and on my 83 and it did hesitate and then ran poorly for the next few miles, (hesitated at stop lights etc). It had been running fine and is now ,but ,even after testing everything you had told me to in your last email, it still is getting 16 mpg. I do not have a part number or even know what it looks like. Thanks again. Bill Dick Benjamin <dickb@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: Bill, can you tell us the part number? I don't find that part name in my parts book, so perhaps it has another name? By the way, you are posting in HTML also. Can you change to plain text for us, please? Dick Benjamin ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com ----------------- This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm