Chris Strohmeyer wrote:
Thx Steve, Then why the 10v at idle and 12v at higher rpm on the plus side of the coil? This was done with jumpers to eliminate the wiring harness. Would you be concerned about thes voltages?Well one reason would be that you have a higher voltage coming from the alternator at 2500rpm than you have at idle in most situations. Also the resistor heating due to load changes the voltage as others have explained (much better than this simple FL boy can do). I just went and tried your test on my '68 lesser Chrysler product and came back with the same numbers you are getting. That car has run perfectly for the last three years so, no, I would not be concerned about the voltages you are seeing. Change the points and condenser if you haven't already just for good measure. You can also attach a timing light or tach and watch for a good steady spark when it starts acting up if you have one available.
If spark looks good then go back and start looking at the fuel system again.
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