Re: IML: Coil

Spark coils are very reliable, the most common factors for failure are, over-heating, by leaving the key on for days, the oil leaking out, which is used as an insulator, and for cooling, and over-tightening in the mounting bracket, this can crush the housing, and create a short in the windings. Other wise they're just about bullet proof. During start-up, full battery voltage is supplied to the coil for maximum spark voltage, after start-up all coil current, is through the ballast resistor. The FSM has a short explaination on the subject, if you don't believe me. Ya'll have a nice day, Dave . &n bsp; -------------- Original message --------------
From: "Steve B." <Imperial59@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>

> Chris Strohmeyer wrote:
> > Can the coil be drawing more than 6-8volts and instead draw 10-12v if
> > it were defective? I tried an old coil I had here and got the same
> > voltage at the coil. Could they both be bad? How common is it that a
> > c oil would be bad?
>
> You are kind of confusing terms here. Nothing "draws" voltage. Think
> of voltage like water pressure. It is the push behind the electricity.
> The higher the voltage the harder the push. Very simplistic view but it
> might help.
>
> In 20 something years of playing with old cars I have had exactly one
> bad coil. I do replace them with new on any old car I pick up more as
> preventative maintenance than anything. I also keep a spare ballast
> resistor in the glove box of every Chrysler product I have ever owned.
> If you swapped the ballast resistor and coil and still have the exact
> same issue then I would say you have pretty much eliminated them as a
> culprit. Could still be ignition related though... bad points or a
> condenser that is breaking down could cause this problem.
>
> Steve B.
>
>
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