IML: 47 Brake Drum

[<mopar413@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

---- Mark Battesby <a1web@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: 
> Well guys its been another week and again I took all of your advise except cutting the hub in half idea . I dont know whetre I could get another after all it is a 47. Hub is still stuck so if anyone near buy want to stop by and take a look for yourself  Ill tell you where I live. 
>   3774 Kansas dr
>   Santa Rosa
>   California 95405
>   7075231292
>   7073279645  thank you for all your advise
>   OK.  This may sounds a bit weird ( LOT Weird)   If you can soak the whole drum in a mixture of atf and paint thinner.  50 50 mix.  Or spray it in thu the drum lip so the it get on the shoes.  Soak it really good.  Let it soak a couple of days.  While soaking it thump it the drum with a hammer pretty good and keep doing this a few times a day and then try pulling the the drum with your puller.The shoes are probly rusted to the  drum.  Good luck...    Put pleny of the mix in it.,  Maybe a few times a day for a couple of day and keep trying to pull it.
> 
it's 
> > made you so far. 
> > 
> > If your car is out the door and over a cliff already, 
> > so be it (sorry to hear that this wil l be the cause of 
> > the divorce), but if the car still has a chance with 
> > you, perhaps there's still hope that we can help you 
> > work this out to completion? That's what we're all 
> > here for as far as I know. 
> > 
> > 
> > Question: 
> > 
> > Where do you live? 
> > 
> > Perhaps there's someone nearby that can spare some 
> > time to come over and scratch their head and put some 
> > eyes on it? I am never surprised when someone else 
> > looks at it a little differently than I do. We have 
> > the IMPERIAL HIGHWAY (located on the club website 
> > under MAILING LIST) that shows people by geographic 
> > region that have explicitly offered to help, although 
> > not all are neccessarily qualified on really tough 
> > rear axle/drum problems. Perhaps there is a local 
> > human resource that's been overlooked? 
> > 
> > Sometimes it just takes an alternate approach? 
> > 
> > ; One option that I discounted because my method always 
> > worked but would try if I got mad at the drum would be 
> > to re-assemble, cinch the locknut down in a way that 
> > it was threaded onto the axle and fixed in place, but 
> > not tight. Drive the car around at low speeds 
> > (careful!), and see if the weight of the car, 
> > vibration, and so forth will work on it. Perhaps some 
> > penetrating oil too? 
> > 
> > 
> > Another way to go would be to look into local truck 
> > service places. Older trucks (I think) may have used 
> > such drums, and you may find someone at one of those 
> > places that has some experience or different 
> > tools/techniques? I encourage you to do some poking 
> > around on this and not let this seized part get your 
> > goat. 
> > 
> > The thing is just stuck. OK. Probably been on there 
> > since the day it was assembled or some such, and who 
> > knows? Perha ps water or something "wrong" got in 
> > there, compounding your problems. I again submit that 
> > you are now down to a battle of the part vs. your 
> > patience. 
> > 
> > This IS solvable. There are plenty of rear-ends 
> > around for most of our cars that you can swap out if 
> > it's just not going to work. The challenges that 
> > you're facing are exactly the things that all of the 
> > gomers that don't work on cars fail to realize when 
> > they admire a car like yours and think that an old car 
> > is just like a new one. 
> > 
> > If it was easy, everyone would have an old car. 
> > 
> > Look out the window. Not so many chrome bumpers these 
> > days.... You are winning your stripes this week. 
> > Keep going!!!! 
> > 
> > 
> > -K 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > --- Mark Battesby wrote: 
> > 
> > > well I took all of yo ur advise guys. I went out and 
> > > got the right puller . I have a very powerful 
> > > compressor em-glow . Put on the impact tool . I 
> > > heated of the area that I was told to with 
> > > torch, and worked on the hub all fricken day . 
> > > Didn't move one bit !!. I am convinced it isn't ever 
> > > coming off . So I will put the wheel back on and 
> > > even though its a great looking car all original 47 
> > > , I will drive it to the coast and right off cliff 
> > > where it belongs. This car has been kicking my ass 
> > > for two months now and now hate it . I cant imagine 
> > > what is keeping this hub on but I have tried 
> > > everything.I even tried a 10 ' long scaffolding bar 
> > > with all my weight it lifted the car in the air 
> > > and still no movement. I'm done . I am so sick of 
> > > people saying to me wow I have never seen that 
> > > happen before. well I have more times then I can 
> > > count. who am I I am the guy that can fix everybody 
> > > else stuff, but can never fix my own.Evey time I 
> > > work on this car it gets worse and worse you 
> > > wouldn't believe it and less you saw the list 
> > > Its not the car its me the only thing that hasn't 
> > > happened is the car falling off the jack stands and 
> > > crushing me below it . well I still have to put the 
> > > wheels back on so i guess it could happen 
> > > Dick Benjamin wrote: 
> > > Kenyon is correct - the tapered axle design 
> > > depends on the friction between 
> > > the tapered axle end and the cone shaped inner 
> > > surface of the hub to prevent 
> > > the hub from moving on the axle end under the 
> > > terrific torque of the engine 
> > > - if you lubricate these surfaces, you will sooner 
> > > or later b reak the tip 
> > > off the axle, in addition to causing noise every 
> > > time you reverse the 
> > > polarity of the torque applied to the rear wheels. 
> > > This will also wear out 
> > > the woodruff key rapidly, ruining the inner mating 
> > > groove in the hub. 
> > > 
> > > The shop manual on most cars with this design makes 
> > > this point very strongly 
> > > - NEVER lubricate this surface - just assemble the 
> > > parts dry and clean. 
> > > 
> > > Difficulty in getting the hub off is usually caused 
> > > by an inadequate tool, 
> > > or poor procedure. Using steady force on the puller 
> > > center hex is the wrong 
> > > way to go - the proper way is to apply impact force 
> > > to the "dogbone" shaped 
> > > knocker handle that comes with the tool, using a 3 
> > > pound hammer and strong 
> > > blows. Heating the hub of the drum will also help, 
> > > but usually isn't 
> > > required. If the tool isn't up to the job, see if 
> > > you can find a Snap-On 
> > > brand puller at your local tool rental yard, - and 
> > > allow the car to sit with 
> > > the enormous pulling force on it overnight - often 
> > > the temperature cycle 
> > > will cause the hub to pop loose in the middle of the 
> > > night! 
> > > 
> > > Often jacking up the opposite side of the car, then, 
> > > taking advantage of the 
> > > play in the parts, pulling out on the opposite wheel 
> > > and then slamming it 
> > > back into the car will transmit enough shock through 
> > > the axle to cause the 
> > > subject hub to pop loose, if it has enough force on 
> > > it. 
> > > 
> > > Dick Benjamin 
> > > 
> > > -----Original Message----- 
> > > From: mailing-list-own er@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
> > > [mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On 
> > > Behalf Of Kenyon Wills 
> > > Sent: Friday, December 08, 2006 5:57 PM 
> > > To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
> > > Subject: Re: IML: Rear drum pulling made easy 
> > > 
> > > I am traveling and can't research as I should. 
> > > 
> > > Read reassembly instructions CAREFULLY and 
> > > COMPLETELY 
> > > before applying grease anywhere in the rear spindle 
> > > where the drum goes on. I think that there is a 
> > > strong warning against doing this. Further details 
> > > are yours to research. 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > -Kenyon 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com 
> > > ----------------- 
> > > This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing 
> > > List. Please 
> > > reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your 
> > > response will be 
> > > shared with everyone. Private messages (and 
> > > attachments) for the 
> > > Administrators should be sent to 
> > > webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
> > > To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to 
> > > http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > ________________________________________________________________________________ 
> > ____ 
> > Do you Yahoo!? 
> > Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail beta. 
> > http://new.mail.yahoo.com 
> > 
> > 
> > ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com ----------------- 
> > This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please 
> > reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be 
> > shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the 
> > Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
> > To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm 
> > 
> 



-----------------  http://www.imperialclub.com  -----------------
This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please 
reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be 
shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the
Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm