Re: IML: '67, 440cid compression

[<mopar413@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Please install the new timing chain and gears before going to the extra work. Get the car running and drive it a bit then run a new compression test.  I think that you will be surpirced at the difference.
> 
> I'm working on revitalizing my old Imperial motor.  Best guess is 150K on her, but only started every month or so over the last 10+? years.  Carburator is rebuilt, choke all set up properly, Mallory dual ponit rebuilt, points & timing all set correctly.  Now it's time to find out how much more is absolutley needed to drive her around a bit.
> 
> Surely needs a new timing chain & gears - I turn the crankcase nut about 30 degrees (either direction) before the distributor rotor moves at all.  Is that WAY out of wack & it's amazing that she runs?  Or is there a normal bit of slack in there that's acceptable?
> 
> Further checking of compression (engine cold, all plugs out) gives me these #'s psi - (counter-clockwise from #1)  135,100, 100, 119, 123, 90, 115, 124.  I believe one desires all cylinders within about 10% of each other.  In light of the probably very stretched timing chain, can I accept these as accurate readings?  Or are they valueless until I install the new chain & gears?
> 
> If those readings do have value, and with the fact that the motor has probably not reached operating temperature in over 10 years, (I'm the freeze plug, Cascade cleaning guy and haven't tackled that just yet) could I assume that I may unstick some of those piston rings/dirty valves?  It sure sounds reasonable to think that running it for a while may loosen stuff up.  Or should I resign myself to those numbers until I rebuild her?
> 
> As I said, this one is is for the old timers.  Let me know your thoughts on old engine theories.
> 
> Dan Richardson
> 300L Family Heirloom



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