From the sound of it, your carb may need repair, not replacement. Automatic chokes frequently require service. Its possible that the mixture was deliberately made rich by a previous owner to compensate for the choke problem so that the car would start cold. You will learn more by working on what you have, before succumbing to the temptation to "throw parts" at the car. If it needs a new carb, then it needs a new carb, but I generally try to make sure that is true, before I actually go through with it. Part of the fun is learning all we can along the way.
Paul W.
The carb "works," ... its just that i think it's pouring TOO much gas into the manifold, and the choke doesn't operate like it should... for example, with the engine cold and i go to start it, the choke stayed WIDE open once, so i had to sit there for a few minutes to get it warmed up. Other times, the choke will slam shut even with the engine good and hot, and i have to manually stick my finger in the carb to open it up again.... i'll take care of the trans first so at least it's operable, then tackle the carb.
Right now, i'm reading about how to adjust the bands. From what it says in the shop manual, it's suggested that the bands are adjusted when the filter, gasket, and fluid is changed. Any suggestions?
Matt
On Dec 6, 2006, at 10:38 PM, john sadowski wrote:
> Matt,
>
> I think I would leave the carb to someone else if I were you. I've > done a few, 60 & 69 Imperial & 77 NYB. The job is not really that > hard. You need a few decent tools, particularly line wrenches so > you don't break the fuel line. Be careful not to loose linkage > clips, don't over tighten anything. Most of all, DON'T drop > anything in the intake manifold or you could really be sorry. I > also had a kid replace a carb on a 66 I owned & he bent something & > when we took it for a test, the throttle jammed wide open on a > neighborhood street. A miracle nobody got hurt. The garage owner > did fire him though.
> If the carb on there now is working OK, I'd leave it be for now > until you sort out the other issues. You don't want to get to the > point where you disable the whole car. That can get very discouraging.
> John
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matthew Gill" <
mgill3@xxxxxxx>
> To: <
mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2006 5:34 PM
> Subject: IML: I'll do it myself
>
>
>> Ok, so i've decided to just do it all myself. I obviously can't >> flush it without a machine but i'm told by many people that having >> a little old fluid left really won't make a big difference. A >> buddy at work tells me that if i'm replacing the filter and >> gasket, and clean out the oil pan, there's no reason to have it >> flushed if i'm already cleaning out the pan anyways. I'll just >> take care of it on my own, and may end up doing another fluid >> change shortly after just to clear out even more of that older >> fluid. Wish me luck! I'll be in the garage most of the day >> tomorrow to get it taken care of, hopefully she's in good running >> shape afterward, minus the carbeurator that i need replaced.
>>
>> Which brings me to another question, should a newbie like myself >> (never worked on a car in my life) even bother to attempt a carb >> replacement? I think it looks to complex for me with the hoses and >> other things running to it... kinda scary. I think my best bet is >> to have my good mechanic buddy do it for me, while i watch and >> learn... and try to lend a helping hand if i can.
>>
>> By the way, i ordered one of those cool Imperial club shirts, all >> black with the big logo on the front, it'll be my car show shirt i >> suppose. Also ordered a real nice license plate frame with >> "IMPERIAL" engraved on the bottom of it... pretty neat. Let me >> know if any of you are interested in the company that can make >> them, they're chrome with the professional laser etching, totally >> custom for whatever you want. I didn't really like the >> imperialclub.com plate frame, looked a bit tacky with the white >> stick-on appearence.
>>
>> Matt
>>
>>
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>
>
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