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Dave:
For the time being, I will leave the heads
on. I was digging out sand, etc., from the freeze plug holes earlier
today. I'm going to get a couple rubber plugs for now, and then flush the
garbage out. I'll keep you posted.
Dan Richardson
300L Family Heirloom
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 7:04
AM
Subject: FW: Re: IML: cooling system
flush questions
--------------
Forwarded Message: --------------
From: sosmi@xxxxxxxxxxx
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: IML: cooling system flush questions
Date: Wed, 29 Nov
2006 22:29:29 +0000
Dan, in many cases, the mud, and muck in the bottom of the block,is
casting sand and fillers, from manufacturing the block, and heads.Of coarse
there would also be particulate drop-out from coolants, and crummy tap
water.As far as replacing the head freeze plugs, exhaust manifold removal,
may leave you with exhaust leaks, and broken manifold studs. The factory
fitted the manifolds with NO gaskets, when you re-install them, and use a
gasket, it is possible to crack the manifold, or break a bolt ear off, so
careful torquing of the manifold is important. If you choose to remove the
heads, then I would have the latest mods done, ie: valve seats, bronze wall
guides, and if budget permits, SS valves . And a .005" clean-up cut on the
head gasket surface. If you wish to lower the CR ratio, re-assemble with
Chrysler PN. 4349559, this will lower CR, by 1/2 ratio, and by all means,
use new head bolts.I think, I covered all bases, if not someone will say
so.Ya'll have a nice day, Dave---- ---------- Original message
--------------
From: therichardsonfamily@xxxxxxxxxxx
Dave:
Those are the kind of tips I'm looking for.
Could I assume that the gunk most likely settled to the bottom (and
back) of the block, and by flushing through those opened up freeze plugs I
should get most of it out?
If that cleaned it out well enough, I still have the possibility that
those head plugs could fail in the near future. If that ended up
happening, am I able to replace those plugs by just pulling the
heads? Then, am I safe to just put the heads back on (with new
gaskets) without having to machine anything? (of course a valve job
would be a good idea at that time)
If replacing the head gasket without major machine work is easy
enough, I think I would go with a solvent of some type.
Off-the-shelf at the local Napa store? or something else?
I plan on spending the $30 for a new water pump anyway. I would
flush and then replace it.
Thanks again,
Dan Richardson
300L Family Heirloom
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Original message --------------
From: sosmi@xxxxxxxxxxx
Dan, Cleaning, and flushing the cooling system seems to be a good
idea, BUT there are some concerns.The freeze plug issue is one, the
block plugs aren't to bad to change, but the head plugs can be a
problem, the ones behind the exhaust manifold, and the ones behind the
head, and the fire-wall.One other big concern, is the head-gaskets, I've
seen head gasket failure after using some of those aggressive cooling
system flushes. The water pump is another, and don't forget to use only
distilled water for top-offs, after you get your cooling system "RIGHT".
When we build an engine, we use marine head gaskets, they were designed
for the WORST cooling system conditions. Ya'll have a nice day,
Dave.
--------------
Original message --------------
From:
therichardsonfamily@xxxxxxxxxxx
Hello experts:
Some super duper, heavy duty, clean the block
questions:
My '67, 440cid, Imperial engine has some major crud in the
cooling system of the block. I had anticipated pulling the
engine and rebuilding everything - now I'm finding it still runs
strong and I think I will try cleaning it out while still in the
car.
I've read the web-site regarding freeze plugs etc. - now I have
some flushing questions. The radiator is now brand new and not
been used. I want to flush the block and pull freeze plugs to
get the gunk out.
Is there some type of solvent/cleaner I could send through the
block to help loosen the gook? Any other advice on cleaning out
some probably very clogged up coolant passages?
I will set up bypasses for the new radiator and old heater
core to prevent any dis-lodged gook from causing more problems.
Is there a backflush or pressure-flush strategy for the heater core,
as it would stand alone? Any other experience to share?
Thanks in advance for the help.
Dan Richardson
300L Family
Heirloom
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