Re: IML: 1955 Rear Brake Drum not coming off

At 5:14 PM EST, the hub came off!!! Thanks again for your suggestions and encouragement. I have continued to hammer the puller, applied heat using a small tipped Oxy- Acetylene torch, and raised the left wheel off the ground for free rotation of the axle. My friend with the now heavily endorsed Snap-on hub puller teaches auto mechanics in a Philadelphia school. He called a former student, now a practicing auto mechanic, about the problems with the hub removal. He is the one suggesting the additional step of freeing up the axle by raising the left wheel off the ground as well. I don't understand why having a free wheeling axle helps the hub come off. But, hey, I'm not going to argue with success. I'm including the last bit of info for your perusal and to complete the saga. I did find the hub and taper part of the axle with some small surface rust, but it did not appear to be an overall factor in my opinion. Also the key was all the way up the slot and it had a small amount of rust as well. I can believe the key had some affect on the wheel/hub being tight.

Again, the wheel is off!!

Roger2382

----- Original Message -----

From: Roger Casagrande

To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 1:45 PM

Subject: Re: IML: 1955 Rear Brake Drum not coming off

Thank you for your suggestions and sharing your experiences. I'm responding to the last input acknowledging that all who replied are included. The wheel puller is as heavy duty as I've seen and is of a heavy duty design. The nut is in place about 1/8 inch from the hub and the shoes are backed away. There is "play" between the drum and the brake support plate, ie, rotational play within the slack of the differential. Your suggestion of keeping at it and adding some heat to the hub will be followed.

Thanks again

Roger2382

----- Original Message -----

From: randalpark@xxxxxxx

To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006 8:54 AM

Subject: Re: IML: 1955 Rear Brake Drum not coming off

Safety and patience are critical here.

I've been there. The right rear on my '62 was the most difficult of any I have ever done. The heaviest duty tool available should be used. There are many grades of this tool. I have broken four of the lesser ones.

Be sure that you are using the axle nut as a safety. Make sure that the shoes are backed all the way off. That means that the adjusters are turned in towards the center. The drum can POP off and fly across the room so use the safety. I have seen drums come off that have been rusted together for years. At one time most cars were made this way. Imperials were merely one of the last ones.

Don't give up, and find a stronger hub puller. You are frustrated and jumping to conclusions. It will come off. Safety and patience are critical here.

Paul W.

-----Original Message-----
From: rdc2382@xxxxxxxxxxx
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Sun, 29 Oct 2006 2:33 AM
Subject: IML: 1955 Rear Brake Drum not coming off

I am having an impossible time removing the Right rear brake drum from my '55 Newport. I did use a proper hub puller and removed the left brake drum, with some difficulty. The hub puller bolts to the drum, has three arms that go to a center disk, and has a center shaft that pushes against the axle. The center shaft has an alignment pin to keep it centered. After many attempts to free the right hub, the tool broke from the hook part of one leg stretching open. The puller is now useless.

I found a friend with a Snap-On hub puller and have been using that one. It does not have a centering pin and the center shaft moves slightly off center when hammering. The tool is much stronger, but the right hub/drum does not budge. My friend and I have been hammering both the puller arm and the axle. The puller has caused some indentation on the axle shaft.

Can anyone share their experiences at dealing with really difficult brake removal issues that might help solve this problem? My next step is to apply lots of heat to the hub, but I have concerns regarding the flammable oil and grease as well as causing damage to the hub. Does the axle have to come off and taken to a shop? How would a shop proceed from there?

Does the brake hub/drum have to be destroyed and a replacement found? Even then, what is used to cut/torch the drum. Yes, I am getting desperate here.

Any suggestions would be welcome.

Thank you;

Roger2382

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