Re: IML: Charging system

[<dansgarage@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi All...if this was already mentioned somewhere along the line, I guess I missed it. Which year Imperials will this $12.00 'MArine' Regulator fit?I have two '66's.
Thanks all!
Dan Melnik

---- sosmi@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote: 

=============
Thanks for the interest, Ya'll. First: this reg. is very close to the point type, the mount, and terminal marking,and location are the same. The box is not quite as high as the orig., and made of black plastic.(sealed) Thats why we use them for classic Chrysler Marine engines. Plus the voltage control, is much better. $12.00 plus S&H.  (5-7) est.As for you pre 60's guys, (generator), I'll check , what's avalible. Ya'll have a nice day. Thanks Dave  81 Imp. & TOO many Dodges.

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "John Baker" <jbaker22@xxxxxxxxxx> 

Dave,
Would this be available for a '56 ?
thanks
John B. 
'56 South Hampton 4 dr
----- Original Message ----- 
From: Ken Lang 
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2006 9:37 AM
Subject: RE: IML: Charging system


Dave,
 
A solid state replacement for the old voltage regulator?  I’m interested.  I was considering building one and putting inside the old regulator housing to maintain the original look under the hood.  But if someone has already done this, there is no need for me to re-invent the wheel.  If you have a part number and supplier/manufacturer, I’d like to get that info.
 
Ken
67 Crown 4 Dr Ht
 



From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of sosmi@xxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2006 6:08 AM
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: IML: Charging system
 
Just to add another point, proper battery charging, requires 13.5-14.5volts.to De-sulfate battery plates, and to provide max. battery service life. Check battery voltage, at the battery terminals during different load, and RPM's. The voltage should not drop below 13. volts. FYI: there is a solid-state replacement v-regulator, that looks, mounts, and has connections like the old point type. I'll check pn., cost if anyone is interested.One other point: you can show charging current, with your ammeter,but have low voltage at the battery, but if voltage is correct at battery,charging is sure to be right.Thats why the change to volt meters in newer cars. Hope this helps, Ya'll have a nice day, Dave.
 
-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: randalpark@xxxxxxx 
The issue with your turn signals at slow idle leads me to think you may still have a charging issue. Again, I think it is related to a poor ground someplace, or other type of bad connection. The alternator should put out enough power for the turn signal to operate at a constant rate even at low rpm.
 
See if your dash lights come on again the next time you turn on the lights. One of the needles in one of the gauges could be shorting out after a time, shutting down the system. That problem should be pretty easy to isolate and fix. 
 
Paul W.
 

-----Original Message-----
From: DReese@xxxxxxxx
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Thu, 5 Oct 2006 10:26 PM
Subject: RE: IML: Charging system
Thanks all for the input.  I'm crossing my fingers that the Imp is finally 
driveable - oops I just jinxed it.
 
I used the Imperial to run some errands and take a little drive around town just 
to see how everything was working and what problems might show up.  It seems to 
be charging the battery, I'm going to run an electrical test on it this weekend.  
I had the headlights on all the while, everything seems fine.  I mentioned the 
ammeter never ticking over to the "charge" side....well that changed when I 
adjusted the power seat, it showed a charge then.  Man, that seat motor draws 
some current!
 
Unfortunately the electroluminescents went out sometime while I was letting it 
idle last night.  Darned car, if it's not one thing it's five others. *sigh*  
However, the power antennae works wonderfully....it's hooked up to a radio that 
needs new tubes and both speakers have disintegrated, but the antennae works.
 
One odd thing, and this was going on before the new wiring harness and 
alternator: the turn signal works normally as long as I keep the rpm's up, say 
600+.  However when I'm stopped at an intersection with the brakes applied, the 
signal slows a lot and frequently just stops blinking.  If I use my left foot on 
the brake and raise the engine speed a tad, the signal picks up speed.  I have a 
new "blinker" but haven't installed it.  Anyone have an idea what that could be 
a symptom of?
 
Applying the brakes cuts the engine idle some as well.  I suspect I'm leaking 
vaccuum somewhere - another item to repair.
 
Thanks all again,
Donn Reese
1960 Custom 4dr HDTP
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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