RE: IML: '71 power windows=Spring danger?

["Rob P" <fristpenny@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Does this go for 80's Imperials too?  I have read about the spring issue in 
the archives, but I've pulled my window motors numerous times (1983) and 
never had an issue.  Didn't see any mention of the spring in the FSM.  I've 
never had a car earlier than 1982 with power windows though.  I assume there 
was some kind of design change. The only cars I've seen where the FSM 
suggests drilling are those that have rivets instead of screws holding the 
motor in place  (k-based mopars-in my case Daytonas, but 90's Imperials are 
probably similar)

Rob


> From: "Dick Benjamin" <dickb@xxxxxxxxx>
> Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: RE: IML: '71 power windows
> Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 08:22:47 -0700
>
> I don't have a 71 FSM, but if your 68 manual gives the procedure, I'd think
> you could use it for general guidance.
>
>
>
>  Folks have been injured trying to disassemble the motor from the 
> regulator
> assembly inside the door - I recall reports of broken fingers and other
> serious injury.  The lift assist spring is VERY STRONG, and will uncoil 
> with
> a nasty snap, when the motor is removed from the regulator where you cannot
> see what's happening, or grab something to prevent this.  When it does 
> this,
> something will possibly get thrown against the outer door skin, causing a
> new dent too.
>
>
>
> The main points are that the regulator has to be disconnected from the 
> glass
> (then the glass should be removed from the door or blocked up at the top of
> the door where it won't fall down).
>
>
>
> Next,  unbolt the 4 7/16 bolts that hold the regulator to the inner door
> panel, and the two 7/16 bolts that hold the slide channel for the lower arm
> of the regulator "X".
>
>
>
> Then unplug the wire and pull the whole regulator/motor assembly from the
> door out the largest opening in the inner door panel.  You'll have to twist
> and turn, and try different angles, but it WILL COME OUT!.
>
>
>
> Now, clamp the whole assembly in a vise in such a way that the regulator 
> arm
> cannot move - if the motor still works, run the arm all the way to the
> "window up" position first, that will reduce the tension on the coiled
> spring to the minimum.
>
>
>
> Now, after eating your Wheaties, take a very strong pair of "Vise-grip"
> pliers or "Channelocks", unhook the outer end of the spring, making note of
> the direction in which it is coiled for re-assembly.
>
>
>
> NOW, and only now, is it safe to unbolt the 3 3/8" screws that hold the
> motor to the regulator.
>
>
>
> Dick Benjamin (who has done this many, many times, on many many cars in the
> last 50 years, and haven't broken a finger yet!)
>
> I also haven't had to drill any holes!
>
>
>
>   _____
>
> From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> [mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Jkelly808@xxxxxxx
> Sent: Saturday, September 24, 2005 11:46 PM
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: IML: '71 power windows
>
>
>
> I have the Factory Service Manual for the '71 and on this topic it's
> practically useless -- a couple of generic and vague diagrams that don't
> clearly show attaching points. (The '71 manual is a monstrous 2-part volume
> that includes every Chrysler and Plymouth product from the Valiant on up so
> there is precious little Imperial-specific information).
>
> My '68 manual is much more helpful and it includes the warning about
> clamping the regulator but again, not very detailed on
> removal/reinstallation of the assembly. I love instructions like ...
>
> 1. Remove door panel.
>
> 2. Remove window regulator assembly.
>
>
>
> Jim Kelly/Honolulu




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