Mikey is absolutely right. Mixing different types of blinker fluid can cause major problems. I mixed them in my '65 and it caused the bulbs to blink on when they should have been blinking off causing it to appear as if I was turning right when I was signaling to turn left. I used good old American ingenuity and solved this problem by putting the left light bulbs into the right sockets and visa versa. This is easier then changing the wiring from left to right. Don Z '65 Crown Convert -----Original Message----- From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] Sent: Monday, September 19, 2005 11:04 AM Subject: IML DIGEST This is the digest version of the Imperial Mailing List. To receive messages individually, send an email to majordomo@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx with the following in the body of your message: set mode standard mailing-list To unsubscribe entirely, visit: http://imperialclub.com/IML-Specific/unsubscribe.htm If you have been switched to digest mode without your consent and you want to know why, visit: http://imperialclub.com/IML-Specific/autodigest.htm | | | ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~IML DIGEST~~~~~~~~~~~~~~MESSAGE SEPARATOR~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | | | From: "mike and linda sutton" <mikanlin62@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: IML: blinker fluid - CAUTION Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 12:38:48 -0700 Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Frank Mitchell has some of the ultra rare BUDD Dot 10 USDA approved blinker fluid available on his ebay store but it runs about 8.99 per drop, with the average blinker reservoir holding 10 to 15 drops so it can be expensive. Some people have had luck with the new " improved " UCLA Dash-Dot approved synthetic and semi synthetic fluids that are far more reasonably priced at 45.00 per pint but are sold in 5 gallon pails only. One caution though, mixing blinker fluids can result in a color shift in the blinkers if the old fluid is not properly flushed. NASA has a correct blinker fluid flush but I dont know the current price. Mikey 62 Crown Coupe | | | ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~IML DIGEST~~~~~~~~~~~~~~MESSAGE SEPARATOR~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | | | From: "Ken & Tracie" <ktjosephson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: IML: Javier's fuel sender (68) Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 12:53:51 -0700 Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx I agree, Year One, though pricey, offers great customer service. I've had nothing but excellent transactions with them. Thanks to Dick Benjamin for pointing me their way. I was able to purchase reproduction plug wire holders for my '68 Crown. These repops are virtually identical to the originals. K. Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 14:03:51 -0500 From: "Michael O. Mann" <mann340s@xxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: IML: Javier's fuel sender (68) Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Javier, Or anybody else that might be interested. I was looking at an old Year One catalog this afternoon. They do show a fuel sender assembly for "68-72 full-size except station wagons." In the 2000 catalog, it is $105. Includes gasket, appears to include float, does not include "sock." They also state that they can rebuild yours. Year One is in Atlanta, great service, pricey. 1-800-YEARONE, or on the web Michael | | | ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~IML DIGEST~~~~~~~~~~~~~~MESSAGE SEPARATOR~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | | | From: "Jon Ricketson" <jcricketson@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: IML: I "Fixed" the Fan but BROKE the Switch! Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 17:36:30 -0400 Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx So, today I worked on my '66 Crown Coupe and, while trying to figure out why my heater/AC fan would not run, I figured out that the switch with the 5 buttons in it was faulty. This part is pretty complex - with several vacuum hoses plugged into it, and 4 or 5 electrical wires attached to it. The push buttons were engaging the vacuum switches correctly and were turning the AC Compresser Clutch on and off correctly, but were NOT sending any power to the fan via the fan speed switch. The fan speed switch is working fine so I know the problem is in the 5 button switch. I confirmed this by doing some continuity testing with an ohm meter. Spraying lots of electrical cleaner into the small openings in the switch provided inconsistent results. Anyway, connecting one of the wires to the hot lead on the switch resulted in the fan running always - even when the OFF button is pushed. And the fan speed switch works. For now, I can live with this. At least I now get heat and AC!! That's the good news. The VERY BAD NEWS is that I broke 3 of the vacuum hose connectors off of the 5 button switch housing. These cannot be glued back on - they are so small and brittle. So now I am searching for a new 5 button switch with good vacuum hose connectors. I don't find this part on my parts list and the only numbers I could read - stamped with red ink on the switch - are 2DB--84. I could not read the two -- numbers/letters. Can anyone help me out with the part number or, even better, where I can get a new/used one? Please!! Thanks, Jon '66 Crown Coupe _________________________________________________________________ Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee® Security. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 | | | ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~IML DIGEST~~~~~~~~~~~~~~MESSAGE SEPARATOR~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | | | From: "Eric" <gearhead@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: IML: Portland, Oregon, Wedding Car Request Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 15:15:19 -0700 Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To the Imperial owners in the Portland, Oregon, area, a request on craigslist has been posted today for the use of a classic car to be used for a post wedding reception tour. The ad reads: ************************************* Reply to: anon-98328865@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: 2005-09-18, 10:11AM PDT I am looking for someone with a Classic Car who might be interested in a small driving "job" - a "getaway car" you might say . We will be getting married on September 25th at a Hotel in downtown Portland. We are looking for someone with a classic car like a '30s '40s '50s or even early '60s Packard or Chrysler or ... ?, to pick us up from the hotel at 9:30 pm after the reception, take a short drive either downtown or across one of the bridges and back to the hotel where we will be staying or to a restaurant nearby. Just a sort of "theatrical" exit and a chance to catch our breath from the day's activities. Maybe 20 minutes total? Perhaps you might be interested or might know of someone who would be interested. We would gladly pay for the time and effort - it just does not seem to be a service that is readily available. Any help would be appreciated. *************************************** I have no relation to the ad or people that posted it other than just coming across it in the Chrysler cars for sale section. The webpage address for this ad is http://portland.craigslist.org/car/98328865.html As long as it isn't a modern day Bonnie & Clyde kind of affair, it might be a nice way to deliver the said parties into wedded bliss via Imperial. Eric Portland, Oregon | | | ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~IML DIGEST~~~~~~~~~~~~~~MESSAGE SEPARATOR~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | | | Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 20:46:12 -0400 From: RandalPark@xxxxxxx Subject: Re: IML: I "Fixed" the Fan but BROKE the Switch! Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Don't do anymore to your switch, and DO NOT throw it away yet. It may be rebuildable! You are going to hate me for this, but that switch is worth more than its weight in gold. You might get lucky and find one on Ebay, but I believe that everyone else is looking for that, too. Part of the reason that the fan wouldn't come on is because the main contact is mounted in plastic. Eventually the contact pulls away from it's mating contact due to heat, and changes in the plastic due to stress, and then it fails to connect when the buttons are pushed. I suspect that you have created some kind of short in the switch, causing the fan to be on all the time. As you say, this is okay due to your fan speed control being operational. The most difficult part of the whole thing is the vacuum portion, but now that has been damaged. Believe it or not, YOU STILL MAY be able to send that switch out to be rebuilt. J.C. Auto does them. Check their web site. If you try to do more with it, you may cause it to become non-rebuildable. Paul W. In an email dated 18/9/2005 10:36:30 pm GMT Daylight time, "Jon Ricketson" <jcricketson@xxxxxxxxxxx> writes: >So, today I worked on my '66 Crown Coupe and, while trying to figure out why >my heater/AC fan would not run, I figured out that the switch with the 5 >buttons in it was faulty. ?This part is pretty complex - with several vacuum >hoses plugged into it, and 4 or 5 electrical wires attached to it. ?The push >buttons were engaging the vacuum switches correctly and were turning the AC >Compresser Clutch on and off correctly, but were NOT sending any power to >the fan via the fan speed switch. ?The fan speed switch is working fine so I >know the problem is in the 5 button switch. ?I confirmed this by doing some >continuity testing with an ohm meter. ?Spraying lots of electrical cleaner >into the small openings in the switch provided inconsistent results. ? >Anyway, connecting one of the wires to the hot lead on the switch resulted >in the fan running always - even when the OFF button is pushed. ?And the fan >speed switch works. ?For now, I can live with this. ?At least I now get heat >and AC!! > >That's the good news. > >The VERY BAD NEWS is that I broke 3 of the vacuum hose connectors off of the >5 button switch housing. ?These cannot be glued back on - they are so small >and brittle. ?So now I am searching for a new 5 button switch with good >vacuum hose connectors. ?I don't find this part on my parts list and the >only numbers I could read - stamped with red ink on the switch - are >2DB--84. ?I could not read the two -- numbers/letters. > >Can anyone help me out with the part number or, even better, where I can get >a new/used one? > >Please!! > >Thanks, >Jon >'66 Crown Coupe > >_________________________________________________________________ >Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee® >Security. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963 > > > >----------------- ?http://www.imperialclub.com ?----------------- >This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please >reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be >shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the >Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx >To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm > > | | | ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~IML DIGEST~~~~~~~~~~~~~~MESSAGE SEPARATOR~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | | | Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 19:25:35 -0700 (PDT) From: Kenyon Wills <imperialist1960@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: IML: 1973 brakes - Metering block Part II - need help or a spare part (help!!) Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Been very distracted lately, but got back on the wagon today and did more work. Very refreshing. The other night I had to go out and deal with a particularly naughty tenant that is working their way up to eviction, and I took the 64 out and drove it over to the meeting. It put me in a really good mood when I got there, and an even better one on the way back. What a nice car! ======================== Today I made the third attempt at installing a headlight door motor on the 1970. The first two tries yeilded 1972/73 motors from vendors. They aren't the same despite what common sense would tell you. This one was the ticket, and the 9-year old magician's assistant said that the car kept "looking" at him and seemed to be growling "get off my property". That's his favorite car, so I guess that they have a deeper relationship than I do. Car never said a word to me yet outside of morse code with the sigal sentry on a low tank. ======================== I also pulled out the 1973. Some ways back I described the following: New brake system. Replaced everything that wears. All cylinders at wheels and firewall, calipers, pads, shoes, soft lines. Booster done 3 years ago and not suspect. Reassembled correctly as far as I can tell (I've done 2 other similar cars successfully). Brakes do not work properly. When I hit the brakes, the response is sluggish and takes double the effort and double the distance to stop, unable to even approach locking the brakes. Felt the same way when the booster went out 2 years ago. It's new and the pedal gets even harder if the engine is shut off and vacuum is absent, so the booster IS working. Feels almost like only the rears are doing the work. I was told that perhaps it is the metering block that is located on the framerail near the steering box. Was told to open both the front and rear circuits and punch/hold the pedal down, close both. I did so twice and the car is still not right. There is the faintest hint of its old self until 40% of the pedal stroke on the first push, and it gets hard again. I am uncertain what to do next. I may have fried the metering block during bleeding? The brakes were just fine before, and I just wanted to be safe, so I replaced everything. There is some sort of a spingey thingey that works as a proportioning valve, according to the FSM. The FSM also says that a firm application of the brakes will reset a metering valve that was latched open, closing off a circuit. http://imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/293/page13.htm http://imperialclub.com/Yr/1973/FSM/Chassis/html/05-021.htm The valve, as far as I can tell, is supposed to be in the IN position, closest to the firewall. Mine is in the OUT position, closest to the radiator. I can manually push it in, but applying pressure to the brakes forces it out. The FSM shows a tool holding the valve pin OUT during bleeding, but nothing is said about pushing it back in. I conclude that I have a failed valve. Anyone got a 72/73 parts-car? I'd be willing to trade a nice set of wheel-covers or something? It would probably take 15 minutes or less to remove and is the size of your fist. follow the lines out of the MC down and there you'll see a little cast cylinder with lots of lines going in/out. Kenyon Wills | | | ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~IML DIGEST~~~~~~~~~~~~~~MESSAGE SEPARATOR~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | | | From: mopar48291@xxxxxxx Subject: IML: fuel pump rebuild kit Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 04:45:13 +0000 Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_28258_1127105113_0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit I've gotten a number of rebuikl kits from Antique Auto Parts Cellar. You can find them here: http://www.then-now.com/The_Cellar/cellar.htm Cheers, Roger --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_28258_1127105113_0 Content-Type: text/html Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit <html> <!-- BEGIN WEBMAIL STATIONERY --> <head></head> <body> <!-- WEBMAIL STATIONERY noneset --> <DIV>I've gotten a number of rebuikl kits from Antique Auto Parts Cellar. You can find them here:</DIV> <DIV><A href="http://www.then-now.com/The_Cellar/cellar.htm">http://www.then-now.com /The_Cellar/cellar.htm</A></DIV> <DIV>Cheers,</DIV> <DIV>Roger</DIV> <!-- END WEBMAIL STATIONERY --> </body> </html> --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_28258_1127105113_0-- | | | ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~IML DIGEST~~~~~~~~~~~~~~MESSAGE SEPARATOR~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | | | Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 22:34:18 -0700 (PDT) From: ken cleversy <cleversy@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: IML: Who's Imperial? Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx I am wondering if this belongs to someone on the list? http://adcache.collectorcartraderonline.com/10/6/5/80168265.htm | | | ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~IML DIGEST~~~~~~~~~~~~~~MESSAGE SEPARATOR~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | | | From: "Eric" <gearhead@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: IML: Please Welcome New Member, Mark Martin Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 06:38:40 -0700 Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx New Subscriber(s): Mark Martin Email Address is: 1966.newport@xxxxxxxxxxx Member Location: Salem, Oregon Car(s) owned: Don't own an Imperial. Have a 1966 Chrysler Newport 2-door hardtop Maroon w/ black top Self-Introduction: Just purchased my 5th mopar. I had a 66 Baracuda, a 66 Valiant, 78 Dodge Aspen, and a 89 Plymouth Sundance. Just looking for people with a similar interest and maybe gleen some knowledge along the way. | | | ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~IML DIGEST~~~~~~~~~~~~~~MESSAGE SEPARATOR~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | | | From: <mopar413@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: Re: IML: blinker fluid - CAUTION Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 11:02:14 -0400 Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx What is a blinker fluid. Are you talking about brake fluid.??> > From: "mike and linda sutton" <mikanlin62@xxxxxxxxxxx> > Date: 2005/09/18 Sun PM 03:38:48 EDT > To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> > Subject: Re: IML: blinker fluid - CAUTION > > Frank Mitchell has some of the ultra rare BUDD Dot 10 USDA approved blinker > fluid available on his ebay store but it runs about 8.99 per drop, with the > average blinker reservoir holding 10 to 15 drops so it can be expensive. > Some people have had luck with the new " improved " UCLA Dash-Dot approved > synthetic and semi synthetic fluids that are far more reasonably priced at > 45.00 per pint but are sold in 5 gallon pails only. One caution though, > mixing blinker fluids can result in a color shift in the blinkers if the old > fluid is not properly flushed. NASA has a correct blinker fluid flush but I > dont know the current price. > > Mikey > 62 Crown Coupe > > > ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com ----------------- > This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please > reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be > shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the > Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm > | | | ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~IML DIGEST~~~~~~~~~~~~~~MESSAGE SEPARATOR~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | | | From: "Dick Benjamin" <dickb@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: RE: IML: blinker fluid - CAUTION Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 08:11:32 -0700 Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx I have been concerned about the quantity of fluid in my blinker for some time, and after reading this message, I opened the little canister (you know, the one with two prongs that makes the clicking sound) and found it was bone dry in there! I'm so glad you pointed out this common problem with older cars and will take steps to correct this as soon as I can identify a reasonably priced substitute. I did check some spare blinkers I had on my shelf, and I find that the odor of the fluid is very like that of sheep dip. As a neighboring rancher has a flock of said ovines (which, in an odd coincidence, also have two prongs), I will see if I can obtain a supply of substitute blinker fluid from him. I will test it on one of my cars, and if it performs acceptably, I will offer it to members of the IML at my cost. Dick Benjamin -----Original Message----- From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of mike and linda sutton Sent: Sunday, September 18, 2005 11:39 AM To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: Re: IML: blinker fluid - CAUTION Frank Mitchell has some of the ultra rare BUDD Dot 10 USDA approved blinker fluid available on his ebay store but it runs about 8.99 per drop, with the average blinker reservoir holding 10 to 15 drops so it can be expensive. Some people have had luck with the new " improved " UCLA Dash-Dot approved synthetic and semi synthetic fluids that are far more reasonably priced at 45.00 per pint but are sold in 5 gallon pails only. One caution though, mixing blinker fluids can result in a color shift in the blinkers if the old fluid is not properly flushed. NASA has a correct blinker fluid flush but I dont know the current price. Mikey 62 Crown Coupe | | | ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~IML DIGEST~~~~~~~~~~~~~~MESSAGE SEPARATOR~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | | | From: <mopar413@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: IML: Please Welcome New Member, Mark Martin Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 11:13:26 -0400 Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx I have two 66 cars. One is a New Yorker and other is a New Port. Looking for a grill for the New Yorker.> > From: "Eric" <gearhead@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> > Date: 2005/09/19 Mon AM 09:38:40 EDT > To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> > Subject: IML: Please Welcome New Member, Mark Martin > > New Subscriber(s): Mark Martin > Email Address is: 1966.newport@xxxxxxxxxxx > Member Location: Salem, Oregon > > Car(s) owned: Don't own an Imperial. Have a 1966 Chrysler Newport 2-door > hardtop Maroon w/ black top > > Self-Introduction: Just purchased my 5th mopar. I had a 66 Baracuda, a 66 > Valiant, 78 Dodge Aspen, and a 89 Plymouth Sundance. Just looking for people > with a similar interest and maybe gleen some knowledge along the way. > > > > ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com ----------------- > This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please > reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be > shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the > Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm > | | | ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~IML DIGEST~~~~~~~~~~~~~~MESSAGE SEPARATOR~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | | | From: "Hugh & Therese" <hugtrees@xxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: IML: blinker fluid - CAUTION Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 10:47:46 -0500 Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Oh for heaven's sake! You guys are letting your snobbery make your lives extremely difficult. Everybody knows the blinker fluid available from Wal-Mart is just fine. Just because it only costs 59 cents for three quarts is no reason to impugn its efficacy. In passing another chain was briefly giving it away for free as part of their tire air quality check service. As most cognizant automobile aficionados are aware, it really is important to winterize the air in your tires for optimal performance. Hugh From: "Dick Benjamin" <dickb@xxxxxxxxx> >I have been concerned about the quantity of fluid in my blinker for some > time, and after reading this message, I opened the little canister (you > know, the one with two prongs that makes the clicking sound) and found it > was bone dry in there! > I will test it on one of my cars, and if it performs acceptably, I will > offer it to members of the IML at my cost. > -----Original Message----- On Behalf Of mike and linda > sutton > > Frank Mitchell has some of the ultra rare BUDD Dot 10 USDA approved > blinker > fluid available on his ebay store but it runs about 8.99 per drop, with > the > average blinker reservoir holding 10 to 15 drops so it can be expensive. > Some people have had luck with the new " improved " UCLA Dash-Dot approved > synthetic and semi synthetic fluids that are far more reasonably priced at > 45.00 per pint but are sold in 5 gallon pails only. One caution though, > mixing blinker fluids can result in a color shift in the blinkers if the > old > > fluid is not properly flushed. NASA has a correct blinker fluid flush but > I > > dont know the current price. > > Mikey > 62 Crown Coupe | | | ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~IML DIGEST~~~~~~~~~~~~~~MESSAGE SEPARATOR~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | | | Subject: RE: IML: blinker fluid - CAUTION Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 12:18:44 -0400 From: "Javier, Bay Adventures" <javier@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Ok then... For those of us who live in the Deep South... What exactly is "Blinker Fluid" ? ? ? Javier Proud Owner of 1968 IMP's of Omaha Convertible Needs AM/FM radio Former owner of 66 IMP's of Omaha Convertible 65 300 Convertible -----Original Message----- From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Hugh & Therese Sent: Monday, September 19, 2005 10:48 AM To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: Re: IML: blinker fluid - CAUTION Oh for heaven's sake! You guys are letting your snobbery make your lives=20 extremely difficult. Everybody knows the blinker fluid available from=20 Wal-Mart is just fine. Just because it only costs 59 cents for three quarts=20 is no reason to impugn its efficacy. In passing another chain was briefly=20 giving it away for free as part of their tire air quality check service. As=20 most cognizant automobile aficionados are aware, it really is important to=20 winterize the air in your tires for optimal performance. Hugh From: "Dick Benjamin" <dickb@xxxxxxxxx> >I have been concerned about the quantity of fluid in my blinker for some > time, and after reading this message, I opened the little canister (you > know, the one with two prongs that makes the clicking sound) and found it > was bone dry in there! > I will test it on one of my cars, and if it performs acceptably, I will > offer it to members of the IML at my cost. > -----Original Message----- On Behalf Of mike and linda > sutton > > Frank Mitchell has some of the ultra rare BUDD Dot 10 USDA approved=20 > blinker > fluid available on his ebay store but it runs about 8.99 per drop, with=20 > the > average blinker reservoir holding 10 to 15 drops so it can be expensive. > Some people have had luck with the new " improved " UCLA Dash-Dot approved > synthetic and semi synthetic fluids that are far more reasonably priced at > 45.00 per pint but are sold in 5 gallon pails only. One caution though, > mixing blinker fluids can result in a color shift in the blinkers if the=20 > old > > fluid is not properly flushed. NASA has a correct blinker fluid flush but=20 > I > > dont know the current price. > > Mikey > 62 Crown Coupe ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com ----------------- This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please=20 reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be=20 shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm | | | ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~IML DIGEST~~~~~~~~~~~~~~MESSAGE SEPARATOR~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | | | From: "WCR" <1roscoe@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: RE: Re: IML: blinker fluid - CAUTION Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 09:30:41 -0700 Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx No, they're just bored. -----Original Message----- From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of mopar413@xxxxxxxxxxx Sent: Monday, September 19, 2005 8:02 AM To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: Re: Re: IML: blinker fluid - CAUTION What is a blinker fluid. Are you talking about brake fluid.??> | | | ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~IML DIGEST~~~~~~~~~~~~~~MESSAGE SEPARATOR~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | | | Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 13:41:16 -0400 From: "Pete Engel" <peter.engel@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: RE: IML: engine problems Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Jay, Others have made some very good suggestions about the possible source of your engine troubles. As someone said, the actual point gap is = irrelevant so long as dwell is correct. But the gap/dwell mismatch may indicate = worn distributor parts. I myself have experienced a stuck centrifugal = advance and it totally took the power away from a brand C engine. One thing to consider is the camshaft. Do you know exactly what grind = was installed? This can be a big problem if a modern grind "emission" cam = is installed since overlap is usually way too much. A friend experience "gutless wonder" performance from a purchased long block years ago and = went nuts trying to determine the cause. The problem turned out to be the = cam grind. HTH, Pete in PA From: "JAY D'ANGELO" <cadij@xxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: IML: Engine problems Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2005 05:46:04 +0000 Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Just put a brand new long block 413 in my 64 Imp Convt., but it doesn't = idle properly and is very sluggish off the line. We did a new PS unit, water = pump, radiator, master brake cylinder, coil, points, condenser, cap, = wires,=20 plugs and an Edelbrock 1406. We set the plug gap at 35, points at 16 and the dwell dropped to 21. I=20 hooked up the vacuum advance hose to the driver side port on the carb = and=20 wired the electric choke thru the whatumacacallit on the firewall. we set the timing to 10 and got it to idle smooth, then it would get = rough=20 in gear, like it had a vacuum leak. Then we were able to get it falrly=20 smooth by readjusting the distributor and it roared in park. In gear, = it's=20 smooth but slow off the line and pings. My mechanic is tearing his hair out and I'm not too happy, either. Any suggestions on this one? | | | ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~IML DIGEST~~~~~~~~~~~~~~MESSAGE SEPARATOR~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | | | Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 10:55:43 -0700 (PDT) From: Paul Volkmann <blackplumcoupe@xxxxxxxxx> Subject: IML: blinker fluid & muffler bearings Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx My blinker fluid is fine but my muffler bearings are making an awful grinding noise ______________________________________________________ Yahoo! for Good Donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort. http://store.yahoo.com/redcross-donate3/ | | | ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~IML DIGEST~~~~~~~~~~~~~~MESSAGE SEPARATOR~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ | | | Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 13:00:39 -0500 From: Brad Hogg <LuxoLiner@xxxxxxx> Subject: Re: IML: blinker fluid & muffler bearings Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Don't let those go! I once had a 73 Convoy with that problem and I ignored it. Eventually the gudgin pin fell out of the bindle rotor and mucked up the sludge pump! Very nasty repair! ----- Original Message ----- From: Paul Volkmann <blackplumcoupe@xxxxxxxxx> Date: Monday, September 19, 2005 12:55 pm Subject: IML: blinker fluid & muffler bearings > My blinker fluid is fine but my muffler bearings are > making an awful grinding noise | | | ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com ----------------- This digest was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com ----------------- This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm