RE: IML: 1961 Starters different from later years.

[Kenyon Wills <imperialist1960@xxxxxxxxx>]

The interchangeable starter dynasty started in 1962
and went through at least 1972 (and obviously came
back in the Dakota) with the introduction of the
aluminum trans cases.  The 1960 and 61 do not
interchange with later years as far as I know, and are
consequently a bit of an item to find if you don't
have one.  

They are worth hanging onto when you see them on parts
cars and so forth.

-Kenyon

--- Joe <joestill1@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> Michael:
> 
> No worries, thanks for the feedback.
> 
> Originally, before I got the car, the starter relay
> was replaced.  After that, I never had trouble with
> the starter until the transmission was rebuilt back
> in February.  After that point, I noticed that the
> starter would occasionally "slip."  Never thought
> much about it because it always caught.
> 
> Then, within the past two or three months, the
> following symptoms would be revealed over time:
> 1)  The starter would whir but not engage the
> flywheel;
> 2)  The stater would whir, not engage the flywheel,
> but when I let up on the key, there would be a
> "thunk!"  Usually, the car would start on the next
> key try;
> 3)  The starter would whir, catch the flywheel, then
> whir again;
> 4)  Lastly, the starter would engage the flywheel
> right off (not necessarily after any of the above
> attempts.  There have been times when I got in the
> Beast and she started right off.  Of course, talking
> sweetly and patting her on the dash seemed to help).
> 
> Eventually, though, the starter wouldn't engage the
> flywheel at all (which is where I am now).
> 
> With those symptoms, reviewing the FSM, and asking
> for advice from the club members, I removed the
> starter, replaced the solenoid, lubricated the
> starter mechanisms as the FSM shows, and replaced
> the starter.
> 
> The same symptoms are evident.
> 
> When I removed the starter, the two connecting bolts
> where damn tight.  I have the skinned knuckles to
> show for it.  When I replaced the starter, I
> tightened the bolts as much as my strength would
> allow though I could not use a torque wrench on
> them.  The wire connections to the solenoid are
> clean & tight and the wires themselves appear to be
> in good condition though I have not replaced them.
> 
> The starter motor that I had that I wanted to
> replace the existing starter motor with is the same
> size but the mouting holes are different.  The
> Imperial starter has two mounting holes and orients
> the solenoid on the top and slightly to the driver's
> side (think:  Orbiter mounted on the fuel tank
> performing its "roll right" maneuver during lift off
> sans the solid rocket boosters) whilst the other
> starter had three mounting holes and they were in a
> different configuration such that if mounted
> properly, the solenoid would be oriented in a
> completely different direction -- more toward the
> enging block itself.  So, I couldn't install that
> starter.
> 
> I did NOT bench test the replacement starter the new
> solenoid, nor the old starter.
> 
> Thus, I am off to the starter shop today, well, when
> I get the dern thing off again.
> 
> Thanks again for the suggestions!
> 
> --
> Joe 
> Allen, Texas 
> '61 4D Crown Southampton 
>
http://www.imperialclub.com/Yr/1961/JoeStill/index.htm
> 
> 
> 
> -------------- Original message -------------- 
> 
> Joe,
> 
> Sorry if I'm coming in too late on this, but....
> 
> Can you tell if the whole starter is spinning but
> not engaging?  Could be the solenoid, but it could
> be that the starter is just not quite correctly
> seated.  I let the dust cover get in the way once on
> my 68 Imperial, and spent a couple of hours trying
> to decide why my known good starter wouldn't work. 
> Was it good and tight when you removed it?  Did it
> fail all at once, or did it gradually get worse and
> worse?
> 
> Did the Chrysler starter not fit, or did it just
> vary in appearance?  I don't know the earlier cars,
> but I know from my smaller MOPARs that starters from
> a 440 Imperial fit a 340 Barracuda, a 318 Valiant,
> or a slant six Dart.  Some variation in size, but
> they fit.  Even the newer lightweight Mitsubishi
> starters on the Dakota pickups interchange.
> 
> And if you do have to replace your starter, you will
> probably find that a local automotive electrical
> shop can rebuild yours and give you a better product
> than an off-the-shelf starter for similar or less
> expense.  I've had poor work done, but usually it's
> a good way to go, especially if you keep it as
> original as possible.
> 
> Good luck; let us know what you find.
> 
> Michael


Kenyon Wills
 
 






















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