For the edification of the group, here is what my painter has to say on the topic. Well, I think I have said that opinion will vary. Here is one from a polish manufacturer (Meguiars). Would I say you should wipe your a$$ with sandpaper if I could increase my commission???? http://www.meguiars.com/faq/index.cfm?faqCat=General%20Questions&faqQuestionID=19§ion=_19#_19 Now, as a painter, I am TOTALLY against any silicone products. There are enough professional grade products available that will give you the same results, if not better, if you spend the money, without the silicones. The crux of the problem on the outside of the car is, of course, regarding contamination, in the eyes of a painter (or a fish, to be punny...."fisheyes")... The process of cleaning off ONE silicone treatment is not too bad, however, if you get one of these yahoos that waxes every time they blow a fart near the car, you have a nightmare. You will note that in the Meguiars FAQ, they mention that a good painter will use a fisheye eliminator as a safeguard. Well, that is mostly bull$hit too (I guess you will do a paraphrase on this document). Fisheye eliminators are silicone-based, believe it or not, and actually further contaminates the painter's whole environment (read: spray gun), and hence, adding the possiblility of contamination in EVERY job from here on in. Not fun. I digress.... Another factor to consider is that on non-catalyzed finishes, (lacquer, acrylic enamel, alkyd,) the film is always "open" These are finishes typical of older cars (pre 1980's). You will remember this type of finish from the rear of the NYer, under the back glass. This "open" finish will accept the silicones applied on it, and they will actually leech into the layers underneath, and contaminate each of them, right down to the metal at times. If you go to refinish this car, not only will there be the risk of "fisheyes", but long-term detrimental affects are possible, including hazing of the finish, swelling of the primers, and worst of all, delamination of the topcoat (YOUR PAINT PEELING OFF!!!) So, most of my thoughts are biased, as a painter. I can lead your flocks to better products, based on my opinion. If anyone wants to know of some, I can research that for you all. As for the Armor All, same story. I have heard that if you start using it, you really can't stop. As the Protectant evaporates, it acts as a wick, pulling up the natural oils/synthetic components that make your plastics what they are. This includes color, flexibility, smoothness, etc. As you leech out elements of the plastic, you are changing it. And rarely for the good. I have not seen any of this stuff out on the 'Net, but you always see the feel-good items first. I hope this is of some use to you. Like I said, just speaking as a painter. But I sure love that Armor All on my brake pedal....... BTW, in almost all products, the silicone is what gives you that "slick" feeling. Some of the bodyshop-friendly products just won't have that Teflon feel to them. That is usually what people like, but the "slick" has no other purpose than just that, a tactile thing. Okay, I have heard the boats and planes and drag thing, and I don't doubt it. However, in terms of cleanup, any good finishing glaze will yield enough of a "barrier" to make things come off well. BTW, I also know of a few great lines of cleaning products. Also for the bodyshop, and they KICK ASS! Enough about me. "Your Painter"..... ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com ----------------- This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm