Re: IML: 63 air conditioning
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Re: IML: 63 air conditioning



You will save a lot of aggravation and annoyance if
you have the system flushed by an A/C shop with all
the right equipment.  Any scale or other residual
debris will play havoc with all your new parts.  

If you do decide to do it yourself, definitely
disconnect the expansion valve.  Its screen will trap
everything you are trying to flush.  (Clean screen
thoroughly before re-installing.) If the 1963 muffler
is mounted inline by the compressor, you can
disconnect it and flush it out thoroughly.  If it is
the big coffee can-style muffler mounted on the wheel
well like 64-66, then I would by-pass it.

By the way, what kind of oil is in your compressor? 
Most rebuilt units now come with R-134 compatible
lubricant.  That may influence your decision as to
which kind of refrigerant you use.

I had my 66 converted to R-134 and it works
beautifully.  Only changes (besides a flush and use of
an R-134 lube) is the addition of a high-pressure
relief switch on the high side, and an adjustable
thermostat switch that reads evaporator temps.  Both 
cycle the clutch as needed.  The high side switch for
when pressures build up too high, thermostat switch 
when evaporator temps go down below 35 degrees - which
it will do easily.  This thermostat switch is in place
because the EPR valve is removed from the back of the
compressor.  Removing this valve allows the R-134 to
produce an ice cold system with easy, inexpensive
servicing.

Good luck with your A/C repair.  Summer is coming!

Chris H.

66 LeBaron  




Do not be 

--- John and D'Ann <jdfahnestock@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>     My air conditioning compressor locked up two
> years ago.  I have finally been able to get a
> re-built compressor, clutch, hoses, and
> receiver/dryer.  I need some advice on flushing out
> the remaining parts of the system.  The instructions
> on the new compressor say that the expansion valve
> and the mufflers should NOT be flushed with solvent,
> does this sound correct?  I can understand why not
> the valve, but I would think the mufflers should be.
>  I see that there are some special flushing tools,
> but they are fairly expensive for what will probably
> be a one time use for me.  Is it good enough to put
> solvent in and blow it out with air?  Can I do this
> with the evaporator and condenser in the car or do
> they really need to come out to do it right?
> 
>     I also am thinking of using AUTOFROST (R-406)
> instead of 134.  Has anyone had experience using 406
> in their Imperials?
> 
> Thanks,
>     John


		
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