--- commenace@xxxxxxxxxxxx wrote: > If I were to rebuild the idler arm, would the > alignment need to be redone? I just had it done. > Was it for naught? It could have been so sloppy that the last alignment could only do so much or was with the slop so far away from the correct setting that when you fixed it the rebuilt item repositioned your steering correctly but rendered the old setting inaccurate? Check the other links in the steering for slop and correct before doing another alignment. Do the alignment then and you should be good to go. Same thing happened to me, by the way. Rebuilt it, aligned it, and no problems since. > > All the cooling parts are new, except of course for > the radiator which was rebuilt and recored. I > wonder if I got screwed? Probably not intentionally screwed. Has the patient been back to the radiator shop that did the work? Those guys tend to be pretty smart about diagnosis and trouble shooting. "Maybe?" a bad thermostat? You can take yours out, put it in a pan of water on the stove and heat the water. Watch the thermostat periodically and see if it opens fully. If not, then there you go? Did the hoses installed have metal wire in a coil inside? Are they collapsing under heat (especially the lower? This could strangle the water flow as the pump sucks water, the lower hose collapses once warm if not internally braced with a spiral metal wire. Look at the lower hose when the car is warm. Still tubular? Maybe a bad gauge (unlikely). Have you taken the car's temp and compared it to what the book says it should be when warm? I didn't do this myself - I like asking others that have been around, but if you're out there all alone too far from the radiator shop and all... Try running the car without the thermostat to see what affect that has? Is your fan belt tight and spinning the water pump correctly? Is water flowing through the radiator? Leave the cap off and warm the car up. when cold, the water won't flow as the thermostat is closed. If there is hot air from the heater, then it's open and flowing. Heater is a good way to shed a little extra heat if the car is running warm and you want to attempt a limp to a service place by the way... if you did all the other stuff, then is is either a bad component, bad work, or a victim of cosmic radiation or the radon in your house. You'll likely have to start swapping parts out to try to isolate the problem. I'd suspect the radiator, myself. It's also theoretically possible that your engine is so filled with scale that it isn't getting good circulation, but I'm not real big on that theory myself, having never experienced it firsthand or known anyone else who has (radiator shop guys might know more about the general likelyhood, as they'd probably get blamed and have to uncover such a condition to exonerate themselves...) Maybe someone else on the IML will speak up with an alternate idea? Hope so! -k Write me off-list of you want a fan shroud for your car - I think I have one somewhere. > > Thanx for your help... > > > Kenyon Wills <imperialist1960@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: > > > > >--- commenace@xxxxxxxxxxxx wrote: > > I built the > >> engine with the best possible cooling components, > I > >> don't think it's any of those parts. My question > >> is: would a fan shroud make that much of a > >> difference? Would it cool the engine > considerably? > >> Or should I buy an electric fan to help out? Any > >> suggestions as to which one? > > > >You're saying here that >all< cooling parts are > new? > > > >The symptoms that you describe indicate that > plugged > >or malfunctioning parts could be the problem. > Those > >symptoms match the plugged radiator on my 1973. > New > >radiator and the problem disappeared. Don't skip > the > >gauge or sending unit either. > > > >Fan shroud will definitely make a difference, but > will > >not be THE difference, most likely. > > > >========== > > > >Idler arm should flop about easily. Ask your parts > >man for a busing rebuild kit if you have not done > that already. > > > >Kenyon Wills > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com > ----------------- > >This message was sent to you by the Imperial > Mailing List. Please > >reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your > response will be > >shared with everyone. Private messages (and > attachments) for the > >Administrators should be sent to > webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > >To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to > http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm > > > > > > __________________________________________________________________ > Switch to Netscape Internet Service. > As low as $9.95 a month -- Sign up today at > http://isp.netscape.com/register > > Netscape. Just the Net You Need. > > New! Netscape Toolbar for Internet Explorer > Search from anywhere on the Web and block those > annoying pop-ups. > Download now at > http://channels.netscape.com/ns/search/install.jsp > > > ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com > ----------------- > This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing > List. Please > reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your > response will be > shared with everyone. Private messages (and > attachments) for the > Administrators should be sent to > webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to > http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm > > Kenyon Wills ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com ----------------- This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm