Re: IML: 1960 Brakes locking up!

[RandalPark@xxxxxxx]

The pedal should be pretty high if the brakes are working correctly. If you have replaced everything and the pedal goes to the floor, you still have air in the lines, or the shoe adjustment is still way off, or both.

It the brakes are locking up (your subject line), then you likely have damaged or worn wheel cylinders. This usually is a result of rusty bores from moisture in the system. The water settles to the lowest place and just sits there. Leaky wheel cylinders can be another cause for the pedal to go to the floor.

Paul

In an email dated 7/4/2005 4:36:20 am GMT Daylight time, HavADope@xxxxxxx writes:

>Hey there everyone,
>I tore my Booster apart, and relubed everything- Now it works ?great!!! ?
>After much work trying to convert my 60 to a dual reservoir, I ?gave up! Part of 
>it was the MC that Kragen Auto Parts sold me(God only ?knows what year and for 
>what it fits, even though I asked for an 67 Newport ?Master Cylinder), Part of 
>it was not enough tech research done to determine if ?it could work, even 
>though I believe it could, and the rest was lack of time, ?Damn it, I want to 
>drive the car, not work on it. So I removed the dual, and ?replaced it with the 
>original singal resevoir MC. I tried to bleed with the wife ?pumping 5X's and 
>holding, but still not to my Satisfaction. ?The pedal ?travels all the way to 
>the floor, before the car stops. The brake pads are ?adjusted out just before 
>they rub. Still, thats a lot of pedal travel. I ?adjusted the rod to FSM 
>standards, but.... I saw Dicks comment in the Archives ?about the power bleed setup, 
>but I don't have a spare MC cap to drill holes in. ?any other suggestions, 
>comments on how far the pedal should travel on a 60 with ?a working booster 
>before the brakes catch, and how to get them catching ?sooner?!?!. 
>Thanks soo much 
>Marc
>60 Imperial 4drht
>


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