Thanks for all the suggestions. In going through what everyone said, I picked up three main ideas: Heat - the hotter the better based on the suggestion of using Acetylene Vibration - as suggested by the use of impact wrenches and hammers Stubbornness - as in what the hubs tend to be Here's what I did based on this (after putting the car on jack stands): 1. Back off the brake shoes 2. Install the hub puller 3. Soak the axle nut with liquid wrench 4. Break the axle nut free a few turns 5. Heat the inner section of the hub with MAPP gas (propane acetylene mix) which is hotter than just propane 6. While the hub is still hot, put a socket wrench with a pipe extension on the tool and turn it as far as possible 7. Two sharp blows on the hub puller 'dog bone' and pop! (more like a gunshot - my ears were ringing for a minute or two) After finally getting the left side off after more than a week of effort, I went to the right side and followed the above procedure. It took me longer to move my tools from one side of the car to the other and install the hub puller than it took to get it to break free. I think the key is steps 6 and 7 - strike while the iron is hot and set up some good vibrations throughout - that and remembering that these cars are very overbuilt and therefore take a bit more effort at times. Up until now, I was just being too timid. Jeff '56 Sedan Trenton, NJ ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com ----------------- This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm