RE: IML: '67 LeBaron update

[dardal@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]

Quoting Rob McCall <Rob_Mopar@xxxxxxxxxxx>:

> D^2,
> 
> Let me admit first and foremost here, I'm a hot rodder.  I'm not sure, but
....

No judgements here, I am just giving you my opinion.  Its your car.

> 
> I have the utmost respect for both the engineering that went into the cars,
> and for full stock restorations.  However, I'm not looking for a stock
> restoration in my garage.  I'd probably make some exceptions to that before
> my time it up, but I don't see it happening anytime soon.

I don't care my self for perfectly stock car.  My point is, its easier to keep
the car stock and maintaining the engineering calibrations done by the factory
than trying to redo those your self, just for the sake of easier part
availability.  The parts are hard to find, but not impossible, to justify the
effort to do this right, or the risk of not doing it right (my opinion).  And I
have driven Imperials, for a while now.  ANd I don't drive them nice and easy
either.

> 
> There have been advances in automotive technology since the mid '60's (going
> from Budd calipers to Bendix is one example).  

Yes, there were improvements in technology, and I agree to use them.  They can
work well when properly applied and "tuned" into the car.  The bendix
improvement had more to do with cost to the OEM than a real engineering
improvement.  The technical advantage is that there is only one piston to go
bad, so reliability under "rare use" should be better.  The disadvantage is
less show contact area and/or not as good contact force distribution.  For
ultimate braking power, the bud system should be superior.  The problem with
the bud system is first, the organic brake pads that fade easily (you could
re-line those with better modern material) and the super thin rotors (you can
replace these with Supras if yours are too thin).  If I was into upgrading my
brakes, this is the direction I would go (mine work fine for now, and I have no
money for upgrades right now).

> If some of that technology
> can be applied to my older cars, in a reasonable manner, I'll do it.  The
> key being reasonable.  

ANd that is a relative term.  As long as you know what you are getting into.

> 
> Yes, a balanced braking system is key to good stopping.  I have used
> adjustable proportioning valves in the past with excellent results.  

I don't know how these works, but that sounds like a good idea.

> I have
> also driven stock disk braked cars that would lock the rear wheels at the
> drop of a hat.  They were fully functioning brake systems too.

Not all cars back then were well engineered.  Even our bud-braked cars were
accused of locking the back a bit too easy (see the 67 road test in the site). 
However, with radials, I have never had that happen to me (may be in 68 they
rectified that, or the raidals eliminated the problem).  

> 
> The car will sit for at least the winter without being driven, and probably
> for a couple weeks at a time in the good weather.  I have several other
> Mopars in the stable that I take to shows and cruise nights.

In that case, it may be worth to install stainless sleeve on the budd
calippers.

> 
> If I can make the car safer (i.e. reduced stopping distance), and more
> enjoyable to drive at the same time, I'll do it.  I don't know what the
> roads are like by you, but up here people are nuts.  

I do not think your upgrade will help there, it will be hard to beat the
properly functioning budd system.

D^2


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