We may be getting “hub”
confused here, or else I am confused (which is entirely possible). I believe the
fellow with the 48 whose drum won’t come off is fighting with a front wheel.
This is not a tapered axle situation; it is most likely a brake lining rusted
to the drum problem.
The tapered axle stuck hub discussion
pertains to 65 and older Imperials with tapered axles on the REAR wheels. I
don’t think the 66’s had tapered axles, by the way, but I stand
ready to be corrected of course.
Dick Benjamin
From:
mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of jsadowski
Sent: Thursday, October 14, 2004
8:52 PM
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: IML: Job number
"next" - hub
One reason for not using a lot of heat when trying to separate the hub
is that you want to heat the hub only. If the heat transfers to the axle, your
fighting a losing battle. Another is that too much heat can cause warping or
brittleness. I recall meeting someone at a show with a 66 convertible. He had
used the heat method & the axle shattered on the highway. The left rear
wheel came off the car at speed & did a fair amount of damage to the car.
Fortunately, nobody was hurt.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, October
14, 2004 8:27 PM
Subject: Re: IML: Job
number "next" - hub
...I'm not sure if these need a puller or not. I would
definitely NOT use a torch to heat the hub. If you want to apply any heat, use
a heat gun or even a hair dryer on high . Then try to remove.
For the benefit of myself and the group, why would you not
use a torch-the obvious concern of fire that could be minimized or concern re
heat distribution causing warping? I know there is a good reason and am
one of those who does best when he knows "Why".
