RC,
Good advise. Another one I have found for magnets that has saved my but a few
times. Get a good size screw driver and some heavy wire. Wrap the wire around
the shank of the screw driver like a coiled up snake leaving about 8" of free
wire on both side. Touch one end of wire to neg side of battery and one side to
pos side of battery until wire smokes a bit. Be careful and dont burn your
fingers. Now you have a good magnatized screw driver.
Tim Hulse
55 sedan
>
> From: roger crabtree <rcrabshish@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Date: 2004/08/31 Tue PM 11:46:41 EDT
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: IML: #7 Spark Plug Change
>
> Hi gang,
> Old mechanics trick for hard to reach plugs. Get a
> section of vacum or fuel line that is long enough to
> reach the desired area. Place the hose over the wire
> end of the spark plug and you now have a flexible
> spark plug starter. Works great! I use this process
> on the old 460 furd pu. All of the back plugs on the
> drivers side are the pits. Remember don't force it!!
> Oh, yeah a magnet tip in the end works for those hard
> to reach bolts. The best magnets are the small round
> flat ones that look like a pen sold by the car quest.
> They have enough pull to start and thread a bolt most
> the way in.
> RC Billings, Montanaaaaa
>
>
> --- imperialsrus@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> > The way I used to change the #7 plug on my 72 New
> > Yorker was to use a 13/16 socket with a 7/8 HEX END
> > that you could slip a box wrench over and "out comes
> > the plug". Then of course you had to fanagle your
> > fingers with the plug from underneath of the car to
> > get it started, but you would tighten it up the same
> > way. Craftsman or S-K Tools should carry a spark
> > plug socket of this type.
> >
> >
> > --
> > Mike Veronesi
> > Member of the
> > Northeast Imperial Owners Club (N.E.I.O.C.)
> > imperialsrus@xxxxxxxxxxx
> >
> >
> > -------------- Original message --------------
> >
> > > I, too, was present for the #7 plug change, done
> > by the Lovely Leslie on her
> > > Haze Green car. While everyone was gathered 'round
> > for this surgical
> > > operation, I could be heard muttering in the
> > background, 'just lift the
> > > motor'. Did anyone listen? Well, they were under
> > that car for a while.
> > >
> > > I have an Imperial-like, optional 440 in my '72
> > Newport. In that the
> > > dimensions for the two cars differ in exactly this
> > location of the #7 spark
> > > plug, with its 4'' ahead of firewall extension in
> > the Imperials, I will
> > > offer the caveat that your actual procedure may
> > vary. With that said, the #7
> > > plug in my otherwise very Imperial-like Newport is
> > impossible to change
> > > either from on top or from under the car. My car
> > has the Imperial-like,
> > > optional, tilt-telescope steering column and the
> > heat insulator they use on
> > > those blocks the #7 plug. On my 1st attempt at
> > changing #7, I ended up
> > > breaking the coupler by turning the steering wheel
> > w/o the motor running and
> > > the coupler only partially attached, this after
> > removing the heat insulator.
> > >
> > > A FWD GM driving 'acquaintance' of mine looked at
> > the situation and said,
> > > 'just lift the motor'. Well, being a GM-head,
> > maybe this is common practice
> > > for them.... anyhow, one left motor mount bolt
> > removed, a couple of heaves
> > > on the hydraulic jack under the oil sump (w/block
> > of wood, of course) and
> > > presto, easy access to #7.
> > >
> > > When I do plugs now, I haul out the socket that
> > fits the motor mount bolt
> > > (this is the long, lower bolt that threads into
> > the subframe) my jack and
> > > block of wood, and my thin walled spark plug
> > socket. Simple procedure. End
> > > of story.
> > >
> > > Eric
> > > Portland, OR
> > > '63 Crown 4dr
> > > '72 Imperial-like Newport Custom sedan
> > >
> > >
> > > From: "Rob McCall"
> > > Subject: IML: Haze green plug change
> > > Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 22:50:12 -0400
> > > Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > > I'm in need of a little Imperial guidance here.
> > I've been working on my =
> > > '67
> > > Le Baron trying to get it back among the living
> > after its 15 year coma. =
> > > The
> > > Holley that was on it was pouring gas better than
> > a full service pump. =
> > > I've
> > > pulled the Holley and installed a spare Edelbrock
> > I had here, but I need =
> > > to
> > > change the plugs. Is there a trick to removing the
> > rearmost driver's =
> > > side
> > > plug? The steering column coupler is in the way. I
> > also notice the =
> > > front
> > > passenger plug caused some clearance problems with
> > my ratchet and the =
> > > upper
> > > control arm hardware.
> > >
> > > Any tips are greatly appreciated.
> > >
> > > As fodder for the Haze Green Era controversy,
> > couldn't the '67-68's be
> > > referenced as the first generation unibody
> > Imperial?
> > >
> > > Rob McCall
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com
> > -----------------
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>
> =====
> RC Billings, Montanaaaaaa
>
> http://www.imperialclub.com/temp/1955/RogerCrabtree/
>
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