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I scan the car ads daily for IMPs, but nothing, and I mean nothing, ever
appears. Yesterday, a '77 New Yorker popped up in the "Antique/Classic"
category of the local paper, the Times Picayune here in New Orleans, as
follows:
"'77 Chrysler New Yorker, blk w/blk lthr int., good cond. runs. $3000
obo. Rick 504-838 8817"
It appears Rick is frugal. He certainly spared all expense in
printing his ad. I didn't call him. I will if anyone is
interested. I imagine, unless there's a New Yorker freak in the area, that
it's not going to move too quickly.
Patrick Moore
'58 Southampton 4 dr hrdtp, awaiting restoration
Southeast Louisiana
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2004 8:26
PM
Subject: Re: IML: Total Contact Brake
Tips (was: 1962 Imperial Disk Brake Conversion?)
Dave,
Did you ever have hard pedal after conversion to the dual MC? What
MC are you using? How much pedal free play do you have? If
you are using a dual MC for a non-disk brake car you shouldn't need the
external residual pressure (check) valves since they are built in. I
have a lot of experience with the '62 and older Lockheed Total Contact (the
Bendix system came in '63) brakes including conversion to the tandem master
cylinder on one of my 60 Imperials (using DOT 5 silicone - difficult to
bleed out all air due to bubble formation with the slightest agitation).
When everything is right you have firm pedal with no more than an inch of
travel just like when the car came off the assy line brand new.
#1 culprit is air trapped in the system due to incomplete bleeding --
front WCs especially since they have air pockets at the top due to mounting
with respect to bleeder screw location. Pressure bleeding works
best because it forces fluid up into these voids. The brake shoe
lining also needs to be arced to the drums (in the old days brake shops
had a machine to grind the linings to arc them to the drum curvature) to
facilitate TOTAL CONTACT & adjusted just a hair back from locking the
drum. Since you have 200 miles on your linings you can check to see the
contact areas. Lastly if you don't really have 10 psi in the system you
will have a lot of pedal travel. If you quickly crack a bleeder screw
open you should see a spurt of fluid then just a trickle.
Contact me off-list for additional help if you like -- I don't think
you need to throw in the towel in favor of a radical mod.
John B.
On Sat, 28 Aug 2004 22:19:53 EDT Duckie26626@xxxxxxx writes:
Fellow Imperial Fans Help:
After putting on 200+ miles on a near complete
Brake Rebuild, that included "New-NOS" Shoes Up front, 5 of
the 6 wheel cylinder replaced & 1 Rebuilt, Turned front drums, Cleaned
rear ones, Dual Master Cyl. 1 1/8 Bore Size, Many Brake
Bleedings, 1/2 of the brake lines replaced, Wilwood 10 psi check
on both half's, I Have Come to the Conclusion that the
Bendix Total Contact Brake System should be called the "Pedal of Doom
System." Somehow they Just Don't Inspire much confidence with a Soft
Pedal & a Lot of Pedal Travel. Has anyone found a Disk Brake
Conversion Kit or A Home Brewed way of putting Disk Brakes on the
Front of a 62 Imp. I'm a 50+ year old tool & diemaker at a
DaimlerChrysler Engine Plant, so I've done 97% of my
own car/truck repairs from my high school days. I've found Kits
for 62 Chrysler, but I don't have to tell anyone here that they are
Different on the Imp's. If needed I can make adapters myself or
bore out housing's for bigger wheel bearings. It's a White 62 Custom
with 55k miles & spent the first 24 years of it's life taking a little
old lady from Toledo, Ohio to Church on Sunday & spent the rest of week
in a heated Garage - No Kidding.
Help. Dave Van Buren
PS:The Info on the website was GREAT. I replaced all 4 shocks
& put all new front end parts (after looking on E-Bay for months),
235-75 15 Radials Kelly Tires All Around &
It Now Handles 10 Times Better!
Thanks!!
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