Joel---Don't panic---Your 83 is a beauty to behold ---Find a 80 Cry cordoba without lean-burn --preferably a 4 barrel and put that set-up on your 83 Imperial ---it will run better than ever -start every time and make you smile----I did that to my 86 Ply first and am in process of doing my 82 Imperial F S Ed---Feel free to contact me off-list at mailto:popp@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx > Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: <RandalPark@xxxxxxx> To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Friday, June 04, 2004 7:05 PM Subject: Re: IML: 1983 Chrysler Imperial: starting problems > This was a frequent problem with early '80s, first generation computerized cars. In most, the ignition and the fuel system are both computer controlled. There are a guzillion reasons why these cars either stop running or won't start. In many cases, the trouble is intermittent and difficult to find. Many Auto Electric shops in the good old USA became very wealthy during the time that these cars were on the road. The sad part is, most of them never really ever figured out what was wrong with the cars. Eventually their owners became annoyed and sold them. > I hate to be so general here, but I know from experience that this was universally true among the big three and most likely others too. My newest Chrysler Product has always been my '68 Imperial. I have '80s offerings from each of the other major manufacturers, and have had occasional problems with both, although the G.M built cars have been much more reliable than the ones from Ford. I still run both of them on a daily basis. > When those Imperials were new, many people had exactly that kind of trouble with them. The cars will run perfectly, and for no apparent reason, quit on the road or refuse to start. Over the years I have found that the folks that were the most successful keeping those cars on the road were the ones who "loved them no matter what". > I have also found that reading the wiring diagrams and understanding where relays and sensors (both vacuum and electronic) are, and understanding what they do helps a lot. Relays with dirty contacts can cause an intermittent problem for years before they actually quit working all together. This is also true of sensors. > In summary, I would say that there probably is not one thing that anyone here can tell you that will solve your problem. If you love the car, you will become very accustomed to knowing under what condition your car does certain things. Eventually you will be able to make sense out of that information, along with the things that you read and study to make a good stab at finding the faulty part or parts. The other option would be to pay someone else to do that, but I offer this: back during the time that those cars were on the road there were few, if any mechanics that could trouble shoot them. Most people just got taken to the cleaners, and still couldn't depend on their cars to run when they were suppose to. > If you don't want to go through this process, I would suggest selling the car, or becoming a member of AAA Plus. If you can, buy extra towing. > Paul > In a message dated 6/4/2004 1:40:48 PM Eastern Daylight Time, joelrsmith@xxxxxxxxxx writes: > > Hi Guys,> > I have a 1983 Chrysler Imperial that I purchased about a month ago. It's in pretty decent condition, but does have some rust in the rear left & right quarter panel & the bottom of the deck lid. It has 130,000 Miles on it (but there is an asterix beside where it says that, don't know what that means) and gets from 15 - 20 US MPG on a tank.> > Right from the beginning, whenever I would start it, it would crank over a bit more than what I would expect a "normal" car to do, although I did hear from a certain mechanic that due to it's older computer, that could be normal. It always drives & idles nice though. Anyways, here's what happened: I drove my car to work friday morning (7:30 am), and it did it's usual "longer than normal" start, all was good. It sat all day at work in about say 20 C (68 F) temperature. I finished work around 5:00 pm and went to start my car. The first try I held the key in the "start" position for about 6 - 8 seconds, it just cranked, didn't fire once. This was kind of surprising, as it had never done this before. So I tried it again, nothing. After that, i tried pumping the gas pedal (I usually NEVER touch the gas pedal at all before or during starting) while I was cranking it, it actually fired one or two times but didn't start. Next, I pulled off the air cleaner cover, & I could smell as( but it didn't appear flooded), so I left the cover off for a minute or two, then put it back on and tried again. Nothing. > > So after that I went back inside to where I work & called AMA to send over a tow truck. Next about 30 mins had passed since I had last tried starting the car) I went outside again to see if I could start the car. I put the key in and cranked it...it didn't fire for a sec or two, but then caught a few times & started. For the first few seconds it ran rough, like it had too much / too little fuel, but after that it smoothed out and idled like it has always had before (it idles nice btw). So now i'm a little scared about something like this happening again (i've been driving it for about 4 days since then and it's always started). Now would any of you guys have any idea what the problem could be and what I can do to fix it? I'm also interested in why it seems to need a few excessive cranks to start. > > Oh, and you can check out pictures of my car here: > http://www3.telus.net/agentsmith> > Thanks in advance.> > Joel Smith> Edmonton, Alberta.> > > > > Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com> The most personalized portal on the Web! m Sj^&r[>&8bg,z{m*.o+ax?zs"Ƣ-).+-^jǫzTr?sSX fbs-?\-r?sܨs'"-Vy"zϮ+ڵz zڝ֭!T^٢z+-h!]mzhj^jW%ܢdPP,D?D-m Sj^&r[>&칻&f > >