Electronic Ignition
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Electronic Ignition




The Mopar style ignition will give the car a more authentic look under the 
hood.  No matter what you do if you want to go down that road though, you will 
need to replace the distributor to one with a reluctor.  

A less expensive solution would be a Pertronix module that fits where the 
points are housed.  It is a Hall effect sensor that simulates points but never 
requires setting or changing.  They run for about 80 bucks at Summit.

Chris Middlebrook
62 Custom Southampton




 --- On Wed 03/24, Woolf,Richard < richard.woolf@xxxxxxxxxxxx > wrote:
From: Woolf,Richard [mailto: richard.woolf@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2004 18:24:28 -0500
Subject: RE: IML: Electronic Ignition

There is nothing wrong with points. I had a set in my '59 Ford Station 
wagon<br>for 20 years, and the car always started and ran great. I would check 
the<br>dwell once a year, and how the contacts were. No problems at all. At 
least<br>with points you can work on them. If the electronic ignition fails 
your out<br>of luck stuck on the side of the road.<br><br>Rich Woolf<br>'66 
Crown<br>'73 LeBaron<br><br>-----Original Message-----<br>From: 
dardal@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:dardal@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]<br>Sent: Wednesday, 
March 24, 2004 5:34 PM<br>To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx<br>Subject: Re: 
IML: Electronic Ignition<br><br><br>Quoting Ken & Tracie 
<kjosephson@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>:<br><br>> Hi All,<br>> <br>> I would appreciate 
your thoughts, experiences and opinions on installing<br>> electronic ignition 
in my '68. Which would be best for the Imperial<br>> application, i.e., 440, 
stock cam, dual exhaust, 2.93 axle ratio. I want<br>to<br>> be sure I am using 
a distributor with the proper advance curve, both<br>> mechanical and 
vaccum.<br>> <br
>> Thanks in advance for any replies.<br>> <br>> Ken Josephson<br>> Las Vegas, 
>Nevada<br>> '68 Crown Four Door Hardtop<br>> <br>Ken, what are you expecting 
>to get out of the electronic ignition?  If you<br>expect to get less 
>maintenance that with the points, then just use whatever<br>will get you the 
>closest spark advance curve as stock (however, the points<br>in<br>these cars 
>last a long time, and they are not that hard to set due to the<br>location of 
>the distributor).  If you are expecting more power, you won't<br>get<br>any 
>more power.  The potentially stronger ignition may help you in 
>certain<br>extreme cases like a very hard cold start without choke or 
>something.  In<br>normal operation (including WOT) the stock ignition is 
>sufficient.<br>Remember,<br>all the ignition does is light your fire.  It 
>either works, or it doesn't<br>(if<br>it doesn't, you experience missfire, in 
>which case you have an 
>ignition<br>malfunction).<br><br>D^2<br><br><br>-----------------  
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