There is nothing wrong with points. I had a set in my '59 Ford Station wagon
for 20 years, and the car always started and ran great. I would check the
dwell once a year, and how the contacts were. No problems at all. At least
with points you can work on them. If the electronic ignition fails your out
of luck stuck on the side of the road.
Rich Woolf
'66 Crown
'73 LeBaron
-----Original Message-----
From: dardal@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:dardal@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2004 5:34 PM
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: IML: Electronic Ignition
Quoting Ken & Tracie <kjosephson@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>:
> Hi All,
>
> I would appreciate your thoughts, experiences and opinions on installing
> electronic ignition in my '68. Which would be best for the Imperial
> application, i.e., 440, stock cam, dual exhaust, 2.93 axle ratio. I want
to
> be sure I am using a distributor with the proper advance curve, both
> mechanical and vaccum.
>
> Thanks in advance for any replies.
>
> Ken Josephson
> Las Vegas, Nevada
> '68 Crown Four Door Hardtop
>
Ken, what are you expecting to get out of the electronic ignition? If you
expect to get less maintenance that with the points, then just use whatever
will get you the closest spark advance curve as stock (however, the points
in
these cars last a long time, and they are not that hard to set due to the
location of the distributor). If you are expecting more power, you won't
get
any more power. The potentially stronger ignition may help you in certain
extreme cases like a very hard cold start without choke or something. In
normal operation (including WOT) the stock ignition is sufficient.
Remember,
all the ignition does is light your fire. It either works, or it doesn't
(if
it doesn't, you experience missfire, in which case you have an ignition
malfunction).
D^2
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