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I agree that the torch is a no no. I know we've covered this
subject to death before & this will be my only post regarding it. The puller
needs to be the type that fastens to the studs on the drum. If you use the type
that clamps to the outer edge, the drum will break apart from the hub rendering
it useless.
If you are going to use ANY heat at all, it needs
to be only enough to swell the drum & not transfer any heat to the axle, or
your wasting your time. Sufficient heat for this purpose is produced by a heat
gun, a torch is too hot.
John
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2004 6:21
PM
Subject: Re: IML: '60 rear drums are
stuck! Help...LeCrown has a death grip on its dr...
Sherwood is absolutely correct. Please be careful and use the
axle nut as a safety on the axle so that when the drum does "POP" it won't fly
off the car and hurt you! This can be very dangerous. There is no drum that
will not come off, some just take longer and need more "pull". My mechanic
friend and I cracked two hub pullers doing this job on my '56 last September.
We finally got it off with a bigger tool.
I would highly advise against
using a torch to heat the axles, and or the drums.
Paul
In a message dated 1/27/2004 7:46:01 PM Eastern Standard Time, SherwoodK
writes:
> Group:
>
> I just had the same problem on a
Mopar of the same vintage...
>
> You need a large puller. Put
pressure on it by tightening the screw handle with a sledge. Hit the drum from
the side all the way around. Tighten again. Hit the drum again all the way
around. Tighten again. Leave like this for an hour. It will come loose. It's
rusted to the shoes. Repeat until you get
> it to pop. Mine took two
hours...
>
> Sherwood Kahlenberg
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