And then, use header gaskets. They will require retightening a couple of times as they are heated and cooled over a few weeks but, they seal much better and can make up for a slight amount of warpage. Have an Imperial day, Russell Sullivan 1966 Crown Coupe 2 dr ht ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark McDonald" <tomswift@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Tuesday, December 30, 2003 9:35 AM Subject: Re: IML: exhaust manifold removal > I'm sure someone else has already touched on this, but in my opinion > the key to changing this gasket is getting the exhaust manifold planed > before you put it back on. Usually they warp a bit from constant > heating and cooling, and if you want a tight seal you need to get it > planed. Or you could take a straight edge, like a good steel ruler, > and check to see how straight it is, but generally I think they require > planing, which is something I don't think you can do yourself. (Well, > I can't) > > Mark M > > On Monday, December 29, 2003, at 11:55 PM, mike sutton wrote: > > > Fwiw, the exhaust manifold fasteners on these cars were usually held > > on by > > studs and nuts, and yes the studs went into the water passages in the > > exhaust manifolds. On MOST of these, with the exception being some of > > the > > performance manifolds that had a very unique deep nut from the > > factory, you > > can replace the stock nut with a BRASS nut , which will eliminate the > > problem of frozen fasteners and busted studs in the future. The same > > rule > > applies to the fasteners between the manifold and exhaust pipes, it > > may not > > be a big deal but someone in the future will thank you for making that > > change....maybe even you! > > > > Mikey > > 62 Crown Coupe > > > > > >