I am sorry to say that the access to the master cylinder on 1960 is just as bad as other years. 1961 may be also, but 1962 was different. Paul In a message dated 12/21/2003 1:18:09 PM Eastern Standard Time, hugtrees@xxxxxxxx writes: > > > Paul wrote, in response to Bill,: > > > > I think the brake booster on the '59 Imperial is rather easy to remove. > > > > Paul > > > Bill wrote: > > Your idea of bringing it to a local brake shop, and > > > then sending the unit out to Karps sounds very promising. > > > I surmise that what is easy for some is not for others. We have different > strengths and weaknesses. I agree with Paul as far as this - removing the > booster is indeed quite easy. Taking the booster apart, having acquired a > new exterior, and putting it back together is also not rocket science. > However . . . this is really where the problem(s) begin. > > I went to the web site and checked out the 1960s. (Lovely cars, by the > way.) I notice they have a better type of brake booster on them, hopefully > one that will allow more reasonable access to the master cylinder. The > problem with the 57/58/59 era is that accessing the master cylinder with a > power bleeder is nigh on impossible. For routine maintenance, this is just > a nettlesome quirk. However it really becomes a nightmare when it comes to > bleeding the system when the master cylinder is being reinstalled. Someone, > somewhere, out there has a power bleeder that was designed to fit the round, > single pot, master cylinder that is situated bang right up close beneath the > overhanging bellows unit. Unfortunately no one seems to know who this > fortunate individual is. > > I have taken my car to brake shops that turned out to be unable to even > remove the hubs on the rear wheels, because they lacked the requisite > puller. I have had another which did the whole job. Almost. They could > not bleed the brakes. I had to get a wrecker to get my 'almost' fixed car > back to the museum. With air in the brake lines it was too unsafe to drive. > I was a little beyond disgruntled about this, you may be sure. I have had > more problems with the brakes on my 1958 than everything else put together. > They have been a recurring problem. Rebuilt master cylinders have failed so > frequently that I was obligated to upgrade to a more modern, twin pot style, > if only because I no longer believe the single pot style can ever be said to > be safe. My car was in an accident at 5 MPH when the brakes failed again. > Regrettably, I ran into the back of a Dodge pick up. The difference in > bumper height held to huge damage to the Imperial even though the pick up > was virtually unscratched. > > With the new master cylinder, from a Dodge of the mid 1960s that still had > all around drums, I was able to, at last, be able to power bleed my brakes, > though it took a certain amount of ingenuity and determination to make it > work. > > My point is that opinions with regard to how easy working on these brakes > may or may not be don't add up to a hill of beans. With the 57/58/59 > Imperial, you are dealing with a designed in Achilles heel and you just have > to do the best you can with what you have. Good luck finding a shop that > will try to do it. Even more good luck in finding one that can actually do > the job. I would find it impossible to criticize anyone who puts on a newer > type of booster and a better master cylinder. I have not replaced my > original style of booster out of a sheer pig headed desire to keep my car as > original as possible. > > There is an odd element that I cannot help but remark on here. If you try > my truck inner tube over the broken booster temporary repair, nothing has to > be removed so you get working brakes for basically nothing, except the > effort of installing the tube over the bellows unit. Under Bill's > circumstances it is definitely the route I would take until a shop that will > and can do the job is found. The shop will need the right equipment, and > that is not going to be easy to find. If Karpps has gone to the trouble of > recreating the rubber for the bellows unit and also does the installation, > they would be the best people to tackle the job. A phone call to them will > answer that question. Being as far away from them as Texas, taking my car > to them was not an option. > > Hugh > > > >