59 to Karpps, etc
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59 to Karpps, etc



Title: Message
I just had to have my brake booster replaced on my '66.  Booster Dewey in Portland, OR did the rebuild.  I also had a booster replaced on my '60 a few years ago by them as well.  Just another option.  My mechanic had my car from Monday thru Friday which included removal, shipping to & fro and reinstall.  If interested, they are listed in every Hemmings issue.  Total cost including mechanic labor (more than the part itself at $110.00) and shipping charges was under $300.00.
 
Bill Ulman
Seattle, WA
'66 Crown Convertible:  Midnight Blue Metallic/White leather interior - She goes by the name of Doris Day
WA license plate: FIT4AQN
-----Original Message-----
From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Hugh & Therese
Sent: Friday, December 19, 2003 9:26 PM
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: IML: 59 to Karpps, etc

Ah, yes, the elephant analogy.  Perhaps not a shining example of decorous discourse, but still serviceable, in its own way.
 
The good news is that if you can get the car to Karpps there is no reason why you cannot drive back in your own car.  The will take, I am sure, your old one as a core and replace it with a properly functioning unit.  I don't know if they will remove your old one, however.  You'd need to discuss that with them.  Frankly, I would be surprised in they will.
 
Evidently, you don't want to try to remove it yourself.  No problem.  If it ain't your cup of tea then that's OK.  Here is what I would do.  If Karpps will do the whole thing, you are one incredibly lucky guy.  Assuming they won't, however, get the car to a brake shop that is prepared to work on it.  (A tow truck will do nicely.)  Have them remove the unit.  Take it to Karpps and get your replacement.  They may rebuild yours on the spot.  I can do it in less than an hour so they would be able to get it done faster, without a doubt.  Get the rebuilt unit back to the brake shop and have them reinstall it and bleed your brakes.
 
The trickiest part of the whole thing is the brake bleeding part, due to the round single master cylinder and its proximity to the booster.  Bench bleeding the M/C is a must if you are to have any success.  Successfully bleeding the brakes is a truly troublesome aspect of this era of Imperial.  I'd have to say in my ten years of having the 1958 I have had more problems with this than anything else.  When I remove the engine of mine to get it rebuilt I shall have this to look forward to, again.
 
Just another one of the joys.
 
Hugh
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, December 19, 2003 7:24 PM
Subject: Spam Alert: Re: IML: 59 emergency brake

Hello Hugh,
I gave serious thought to your elephant condom theory of the inner tube over the booster unit, and almost wrote to you to find out which size inner tube to use. You have answered that however, in one of your recent mails. I thought about doing it, so I could drive the Imperial to Karps, and let them take off the booster and perform all of the necessary work. Problem is, how do I get home from Karps once I drop off the Imperial. It is in Upland which is a good hour from where I live, and would require taking several freeways to get there. I'd hate to bother anyone to follow me and drive me back such a distance, and if you know anything about Los Angeles, we are not very well known for public transportation. Truth is if you don't have a car here, your only alternative is pretty much a bicycle!
 
Bill '59 Crown


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