Yes, you can set the compressor over to the side without having to dump the
Freon out. Just be careful not to stress the hoses any more than absolutely
necessary. I seem to recall I just set the power steering pump aside
also, and didn't have to drain it, but I've pulled so many engines that I
may have this car confused with another. I know I have always managed to
avoid spilling the Freon, though, on any car I've pulled the engine on.
The only caution your book might not tell you about is the way to disconnect
the engine from the torque converter. This isn't unique to your car, but
just in case you are not familiar with the task, you need to do it this way:
Take the cover plate off the bottom of the converter housing (we used to
call these bell housings). Mark the converter and flex plate (we used to
call these flywheels) so that when you re-assemble, you get everything back
in the same holes. Now reach up and unbolt the converter from the flex
plate. You'll have to turn the crankshaft to get at all the bolts. Now,
push the converter back into the transmission - it will move back about 1/2
inch or so. Then, with some baling wire or the like, wire the converter
into place so that it cannot creep back out on you.
Before you pull the engine, remove the distributor from the back of the
block, so you don't damage it. Removing the whole hood makes life easier,
but you'll need a couple of helpers to do this without damage to the
surrounding body work. Also, scribe marks at both hood hinges to save
yourself having to fiddle with adjustments when you put the hood back on.
Rent a good engine hoist - the El-cheapo type sold at Harbor Freight and the
other China made ones are dangerously inadequate, and very short lived!
Unless you have had the transmission out within the last few years, now is
the time to replace the front seal on the tranny. It's a $5 part, but the
labor to change it when it starts leaking is hundreds of dollars. To
change this seal, you need a seal puller (rent that too). You undo your
baling wire and pull the converter out of the transmission, being very sure
to first note how far into the bell housing it goes, because when you
reinstall it is a real chore to get it to back all the way, you have to keep
jiggling and trying until you find the magic spot, but it is absolutely
essential that you do this and get it all the way back! Once you have the
converter out, you can see the front seal, just pop that sucker out of there
and put the new one in after wiping the flange clean. You can use a large
socket or other clean, round strong thingy to push it back until it seats.
Then reinstall the converter and wire it in place.
I must say, and check your FSM to verify this, but on some cars the
transmission and engine have to be removed as a unit, then the above all
applies with both units hanging on the engine hoist where you can really see
what you are doing. When I rebuilt my 81 about 7 years ago, I did it this
way, but I don't recall whether or not that was mandatory or just my choice
(I usually pull both as a unit - strangely, it seems easier to me to do it
that way).
I'll be very interested to find out how bad your crank and bearings are -
I'm expecting brass showing and scoring, from your symptoms.
Dick Benjamin
----- Original Message -----
From: "Daniel M Wing" <imp1983@xxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2003 9:13 AM
Subject: IML: It's bite the bullet time
> Well,
>
> I think that I have finally decided to go ahead and take
> the engine completely out of my 83 to work on it.
>
> Trying to get the y-pipe 'un-welded' and removing the
> center link and THEN working on my back on the
> garage floor with crap falling in my face has set my mind.
>
> I found an engine hoist kit at a local Big Lots store. I may investigate
> it. I will also price out renting one.
>
> I know that it will be FAR easier working on the engine outside of
> the car. Plus as I mentioned before, I can work on the engine
> compartment as well as painting everything.
>
> Does anyone have info on 'special things' to look for when
> pulling an 80's 318? I know that there are air tubes going
> to the catalytic converter and other stuff that is not shown in
> that Rebuild Book I bought. Can the newer style A/C
> compressor be moved w/o dumping the R-12 (which still works)?
>
> Wish me luck.
>
> Dan Wing
> Marcy, NY USA
>
> imp1983@xxxxxxxx
>
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