Rebuilding A Small Block

["A. Foster" <monkeypuzzle1@xxxxxxx>]

Jeff;

 I hate to say this but you are performing the same diservice that A lot of "Car Buddies" do to a new guy, talking a fellow into undertaking a project that's way over his head and his pocketbook.. I think that the first thing that I would do before pulling anything is to do a compression test on each cylinder then he will know whether he even has to mess with the top end. If it turns out that it needs a major overhaul I would search around for a Caravelle or Fifth avenue for a donor engine, 318's are a dime a dozen and not worth dumping major money into.

 

 If he wants to rebuild the original engine there are some ways to keep the costs down but it basically comes down to one question; stock or rod? If he wants it stock he won't have to go through many of the procedures or buy the same sorts of parts that you would if you were building it up. For example the difference between the price of a set of cast pistons verses forged ones can be as much as 50%. In a street engine you do not have to worry as much about perfect ballance between con-rods as you would a race motor, and so on. Magna fluxing might be worth doing on a used replacement part in unknown condition but I think that it might be overkill to go to this expense on a working engine that is never going to be used for racing. I would say that he could buy a decent rebuild kit for under $500 dollars through any auto parts store, or reputable mail order outfit, and end up very satified with the results.

Best Regards

Arran Foster

1954 Imperial Newport

Needing A Left Side Taillight Bezel and other trim parts.

 

----- Original Message -----

From: Jeff Shaw

To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Sent: Monday, May 05, 2003 8:15 PM

Subject: IML: Rebuilding A Small Block

Dan,
If you want to keep the car original, the first thing to do is buy the book, "How To Rebuild Your Small-Block Mopar" by Don Taylor. I think it is available at Amazon. I can't say enough good things about this book. It takes you from opening your hood to firing the new motor up and driving away. It is a very simple format that is written for the inexperienced. Just be realistic about the cost, with the machine shop work and high quality parts like rings, bearings, gaskets etc (don't bother buying cheap crap with all the work you are putting into it) and hardened valve seats for the unleaded gas, it adds up. There is some things you just can't do like the bore and hone, deck the block, balance and valves. If your 318 is  a high mile motor, it will have to be bored about 20 over to make the cylinders round which means new pistons. All other parts like rods, cam, lifter, pushrods, crankshaft will have to be inspected and magnafluxed by the shop to see if they can be used again. You should buy a quality "clicker" torque wrench to keep. You can rent piston installers, ring gapper, engine hoist. I suggest you buy an engine stand (about $79 at Price Club) because this project will take 5 times longer then you think. I'm not trying to discourage you but if you can do this for $1500 you are doing good, remembering your labor is worth $0. The other alternative is to buy a Mopar 360 crate engine with the install kit for $3500 and drop it in, or a real okie job of cheap parts and quick work with lots of shortcuts that you will have to do again in 6 months. I think if you and your son do it the right,  the value of the experience and what you will learn can not be counted in dollars. Good luck.

Jeff