Yesterday, I picked up the new drive axles for the car, $99.00 each after
core. I also went by my mechanic's shop and picked up the lower control
arms that had shiney new ball joints pressed into them and the intermediate
drive shaft that had a shiney new U-joint installed. I was also pleased to
see that he had successfully removed the inner CV joint from the
intermediate shaft. I also bought "output shaft" seals to seal off where
the drive axle fits into the transaxle.
Today, a friend came over and we went yarding to attempt to find the
required brake parts for my car. What I need (and speak up if you can help)
is the part that the spindle and brake caliper mount to. This is likely a
part that is not often replaced. I need that part for all four wheels. You
see, the car has very high mileage and due to the brake linings riding on
this part, they have worn small grooves or divits into this part. My
mechanic will not safety the car before this is repaired. We were
unsuccessful in finding what I need. If you are so inclined, I have a
listing of the vehicles that could have the correct part. The vehicle MUST
have ABS. If it doesn't, it won't work. Those vehicles are...
Caravan 1991-1995
Daytona 1989-1990 equiped with the 11" brake rotor
Daytona 1991-1993
Dynasty 1989-1993
Shadow 1991-1994
Spirit 1991-1995
Imperial 1990-1993
LeBaron 1989-1990 equiped with the 11" brake rotor
LeBaron 1991-1995
New Yorker 1989-1993
Aclaim 1991-1995
Sundance 1991-1994
Voyager 1991-1995
So, we came home and installed the lower control arms and the intermediate
drive shaft. We also finished driving the steering shaft U-joint onto the
steering rack's spline. I needed help with that so I left it till I had a
friend over. After he left, I continued doing what I could. I decided to
slip the drive axles into place. As expected the left one slipped right
into place like nothing. The right one is a different story. It seems that
the new drive shaft is going to be as difficult to install into the
intermediate shaft as the old one was to remove. In case you dont know that
I mean by that, it was VERY HARD TO DO! I needed to "tap" it in. I decided
to try to tap around the edge of where the boot meets the joint. WRONG IDEA!
I found out how much it takes to split a brand new CV boot! :( I will now
go and buy a NEW inner CV boot and install it on my NEW drive axle. (sigh)
Banging head against the wall....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brad Hogg" <roadhogg@xxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, August 25, 2002 10:56 AM
Subject: Re: IML: 1990 Imperial Front End Work
> This is the latest on my Imperial work.
>
> Yesterday, I decided I had to get the old rack and the axles out of the
car
> and ready to exchange for the new. As I've said, the left axle came out
> without a problem. The rack, I managed to get it taken out also. I had
to
> heat the U-joint part on the spline shaft on the rack to get it free but
it
> came right off with some heat. The right drive shaft remained a problem.
It
> still does, but not mine. You see, I removed the extension shaft with the
> axle and I will simply take it to my mechanic and have him deal with it.
>
> I also removed the "A" arms from the "K" frame so I could take them to the
> mechanic to have new ball joints installed into them. Removing the "A"
arms
> wasn't difficult at all. I didn't need to access that nut inside that
> little hole after all because Chrysler, in their wisdom, fitted the nut
with
> a sort of metal tab to keep it from turning. The location of the bolt
head
> meant I couldn't use my impact wrench though so I was reduced to my swing
> bar and 1/2" ratchet. (ahhh the good old days!)
>
> I washed everything up nice and I now have two drive axles and two "A"
arms
> in the trunk of my OTHER car, ready for my mechanic. (well, he'll only
see
> one of those axles)
>
> Yesterday, I returned the old rack to the parts store for core credit and
> picked up the tie rod ends and a set of brake linings for the rear of my
> daily driver (1978 Chrysler Newport). I found it interesting that while
the
> boxes that the two tie rod ends came in were identical, the tie rod ends
> were not. I compared them for dimentional consistency and they are
> functionally the same but one is noticably larger than the other.
>
> When I returned home, I proceeded to install the new rack into the car.
I've
> detailed how I did that on my web page at:
> http://www.nybclub.org/bradhogg/90Imperial/Repairs/index.htm#steeringrack
> I was even able to get some pics of the process. It sure it alot easier
to
> do these projects when you do a bunch of stuff at once. What I mean is,
> replacing the drive axles, replacing the rack/brakes/ball joints/tie rod
> ends/ etc all in one big project is so much easier because most of the
same
> stuff has to come apart to do it. Now, if it only weren't for the
expense!
>
> Brad Hogg
> Winnipeg, Manitoba
> http://www.nybclub.org/bradhogg/index.htm
> 1990 Chrysler Imperial 4-door Sedan (the KImperial)
> 1978 Chrysler Newport 4-door Hard Top (the Newporker)
> 1976 Chrysler New Yorker Brougham 4-door Hard Top (the Black Beast)
> 1968 Chrysler Newport Custom 4-door Sedan (Grand-Dad's car)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Brad Hogg" <roadhogg@xxxxxxx>
> To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Saturday, August 24, 2002 3:02 PM
> Subject: Re: IML: 1990 Imperial Front End Work
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