> Left and right front floor rusted through (about a 6
> inch area)
I've seen this often on these cars. One thing that
I've found to work really well (forget who told me
about this) is to get the roof of a car. Cut off the
roof of a car, and use the painted sheet metal to
patch up the rust holes. The roof metal is thicker,
has more laiers of paint and primer on them
(typically).
Basically you can cut out the entire infected areas
of the floor board, and weld in a cut-to-fit sheet of
roof metal from a car. Be sure to cover any exposed
metal with primer and then a good dose of paint and/or
underbody spry afterwords. Now might be a good time to
try POR-15. Just a thought. But the thicker gauge
metal definatly helps in preventing the holes from
returning.
'course, you have to get a car's roof....
> Right rear brake hose cracked
I'd check over the entire brake system. Forget if the
'90 had ABS as an option or standard. I haven't yet
worked with the ABS on one of these models, but I do
know that the non-ABS versons have rubber brake hoses
for the front cylinders which are prong to cracking
over time. Take off the front tire and fell over the
rubber hoses. If you see cracks, might as well replace
them now before they have problems. Also check the
metal lines. If the metal lines are real rusty,
replace them- as they well brake if rusty if you look
at them wrong :)
Keep in mind I don't know anything about the ABS
system on this model... when I did some brake work on
a "similar" model, I found that the brake cylinder
doesn't go all the way in. Basically the cylinder
should be able to be pushed all the way in by hand
without too much trouble. It is possible to rebuild
the front cylinders, but much more efficent (both time
and money wise) to just replace them. I know NAPA has
them (but require a core deposit...).
I happen to have, new in the box, the front brake
hoses, front cylinders, and three master cylinders,
and not used (but not in the box) pads for the 1989
k-cars. I know they used those exact same parts on the
Spirit. Don't know if the Dynasty/Imperial ABS or
non-ABS used them or not.. if you want them (assuming
you can find if you can use them), I'd sell them cheap
(have had them on hand from a past project).
> Power steering rack has no assist cold
> Power steering pressure hose leaking
Mine leaks a little, though not enough to require any
work yet.
> The only thing they DIDN'T call was the windshield.
> The crack is not in
> driver's view so it is ok. Ironic huh!
Ouch... windshields are REAL hard to replace on these
models. I know (because I just replaced one on my
Dynasty not much more then a month ago- the windsheld
cracked and shattered upon take off- guess there is a
reason why some people have strut tower braces!)
personally.
You can get a windshield cheap used though. I found a
Dynasty windshield used (off the shelf- no u-pull
work) for $65 (US). Found one new for $200 (US).
I don't know if the Dynasty windshield will work in
the Imperial or not.
Replacing them isn't that hard thought wise, just
time consuming and hard physical work. I did one with
my uncle (who has been replacing windows
perfessionally for decades) and it took us 6 hours in
a shop.
To replace it, we lifted up the hood lid, removed the
windshield wipers, removed the front bottom windshield
trim, then used piano wire to remove the windshield.
Once we got some wire through the selant in the
bottom of the windshield, and got the wire into the
inside of the car, we moved the wire like a saw to cut
through the silicon sealer. The only trouble we got
was going through the top sealer. Chrysler put a metal
ledge up there to help ensure that the windshield
won't come out in a crash. Takes a lot of work to get
the wire around this ledge so that the upper sealer
can be cut through. After the sealer is cut all the
way around all 4 sides, the windshield can just pop
forward. We used windshield sucktion cups to hold and
move the old window out. After that the old sealer
needs to be cleaned out, and have primer put on any
exposed metal or rust spots.
We then put new sealer on, put in the window, went
around the window with the sealer to ensure that there
isn't any leaks, then put everything back together.
Getting the mirror hook-up piece off the old
windshield requires heating it with a torch. The heat
will brake the bonds of the glue. A glue kit for these
mirrors can be bought anywhere for around $10 (US).
In NY state (don't know about elsewhere), one has to
re-inspect the car upon replacing the windshield.
Either way, I'd get the windshield replaced before it
gets worse, or requires attention. May be a small
break today, but if its really hot out, and then the
car is rained on or something, and that crack will get
much bigger. You could try a windshield repair kit.
I've never used one (I have always just replaced the
window- to be sure).
I know some insurance companies will pay for repair
kits if the windows are insured- as the kits are
cheaper then a new window....
Just a thought.
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