Dick is correct about experience. The worst thing you can do is stretch it by using a big hammer or force. That will make it that much harder if you pay someone to do it. Much harder translates to more $'s from your pocket. If you decide to do it, use a WOODEN mallet and a steel dolly or vise versa as this will cold shrink the metal and you don't have to use a torch and heat and risk the potential problems that go with that approach if you cant control it. If you do use a torch shrink only a small area at a time ( about a dime size)DO NOT put water on it to cool it. If you want to speed cooling use an air hose. The water will cause a hard spot in the panel that will get work hardened and not respond incorrectly. This will cause use of more filler in that spot. If you shrink it correctly it will take little or no filler. Also look carefully at the dent and remove it slowly in the reverse direction it was put in. The metal has a memory and will want to return to its' original shape. Best regards RR Richard Routt rar@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 1-877-863-6990 64 Crown Coupe and other Mopar/Ford Junk -----Original Message----- From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of Dick Benjamin Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2002 9:27 PM To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: Re: IML: Body repair/sheet metal Q? Either approach will leave you with metal that bows outward rather than inward, as the metal is stretched and will stretch further the more you fiddle with it. You need to shrink the metal, and unless you have experience with this and the right tools, I strongly urge you to seek the help of a professional. Dick Benjamin ----- Original Message ----- From: kenyon wills <imperialist60@xxxxxxxxx> To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Wednesday, July 31, 2002 12:56 PM Subject: IML: Body repair/sheet metal Q? > my 1960 was rubbed by another car's bumper at some time in > ancient history. There is a gouge/dent that goes across > the DS rear door and continues into the rear quarter panel > above the R wheel. I am stripping the car and will repaint > it, so this is a full-on paint project, not a local area > repair. > > I can fill in the gouge, but an area the size of a manila > mailing envelope is pushed in perhaps an inch in a very > mild depression. The entire panel with the enveolpe sized > depression is gigantic and is under the fin on the side of > the car. > > When I grab the panel with a slide hammer or a hook through > the trim mount hole and pull on it, trying to bow it back > out, it "biongs" out into the correct shape but then > springs back to its bent form. I tried to pull really hard > on it, but it is not taking to manual or slide-hammer pulls > because it is not a small crease, but a large curved > depression. > > I figure that I can either: > > drill a hole through the body and the interior wheelwell > sheetmetal (there's a 1/4" gap between them). I can then > use a bolt with a really large washer or even a piece of > wood to distribute the pressure, and then connect a > come-along to it and pull/bend the panel out to the shape > that I want, reversing the pressure of impact. > > OR > > remove the rear wheel and use a scissors jack inside the > weel well to push/bend the panel outwards from the inside, > deforming the wheel well metal in the process, which is > just fine as long as it looks OK on the outside, which I > think that it will. > > Any other suggestions before I start using force on this > large-surface area panel? > > Do you know the address for the body work Email club that > has been mentioned? > > > > ===== > Kenyon Wills > 6o LeBaron - America's Most Carefully Built Car > 73 LeBaron - Long Low & Luxurious > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Health - Feel better, live better > http://health.yahoo.com > >