The wrenches that D squared refers to are called "line wrenches". The trick
in getting these line fittings apart is to use a very good fitting line
wrench on the line side (again, I must mention that Snap-on is the only
brand to buy here!) and ALWAYS use a backup wrench on the mating part, so
there is no possibility of anything twisting the parts. The technique is to
"snap" the fitting loose by a rapid jolt on the wrenches. Slow, steady
pressure on the wrench will not work, usually. You have to use the impact
of a hard jolt to the wrench to get them to pop loose and turn. It's easier
to do this than to describe it - it is just a feeling one learns after many
years of working on these things.
As for re-flaring a tubing end, be advised that brake lines use what is
called a "double flare", and anything else will be unsafe and probably
leaky. It takes a special flaring tool to make these flares, and even with
a very good quality flaring tool and setup- they are tricky to make.
Imperial Eastman makes such a tool, and of course you know the other brand
to buy.
I'm a little nervous about re-flaring a tubing which has previously been in
service, as the metal may have some strength or surface deterioration. Much
better to start with new parts - we're dealing with brakes here, folks!
You can buy prefab brake lines at any good parts store - I know NAPA stocks
them for one, and while you can't usually find the exact length you need,
you can usually come close enough, if you do some creative bending and
looping. There is a bending tool you can buy that prevents crimping the
tubing when you try to bend it (which weakens the tubing and makes it unsafe
for brake use in my opinion), or you can pack the tubing tightly with sand
to bend it - of course you need to thoroughly clean and flush it afterwards,
but if it is packed with sand, it won't crimp!
Dick Benjamin
----- Original Message -----
From: D. Dardalis <dardal@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, June 01, 2002 9:12 PM
Subject: Re: IML: brake lines needed
> I had similar problems with my 68 sedan on the front left side, of much
> smaller length (lines might be different from 66). All I did was take the
> line to an auto part store and match the fitting. It was not too
difficult
> to match and replace the line. It was a bit too long, but I coiled it
> around, and that was it.
>
> In your case though, if you can reflair, go for it. Its worth trying. If
> it was not leaking before, it should not leak afterwards. I am sure you
> know that, but make sure you use the proper wrench. You can't fit the box
> end of a standard wrench, but if you try to use the open end, you may
round
> up the fitting. They make special "semi-box" wrenches just for cases like
> this (don't know the proper name of the wrench). I have one (I think
3/8")
> and without it, I would have never been able to remove and reinstall my
> callipers.
> D^2
>
> At 08:40 PM 6/1/2002 -0400, you wrote:
> >to all,
> > the front brake hoses on my 66 crown are rotted and in trying to
> >seperate the hose from the brake line, the brake line end snapped off. i
have
> >new hoses, but my question is this; should i put the end screw back on
and
> >then try to reflair the end for a new connection or should i replace the
> >brake line?
> > this is the passenger front and travels under the block. It
doesn't
> >look very fun to replace what with all the turns it goes through. if i
need
> >to replace the line, who and where do i get one from?
> > The driver side front is acting the same way,(not wanting to
move or
> >come loose). I have used liquid wrench, pb blast, and even heat. still a
no
> >go. looking for help and direction
> >mark truman
> >66 crown
> >(that someday will take to the road?!)
> >
> >
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