I believe 61 was the last year for this type of booster.In 62, they went to the round style. John David Sherratt wrote: > The repair of the oval brake booster is quite simple. However this must be > conceived as only a temporary repair. > > The oval brake booster is a very simple piece of kit. It is basically just > a cylinder with poppet valves and a large neoprene diaphram and piston. It > is nine times out of ten the neoprene that wears. The centre of the > cylinder has a shaft that runs through the centre of the neoprene diaphram > and piston. If you disassemble an oval cylinder you will find all the > poppet valves towards the front and a valve block that's held in position by > two split pins or Salock pins as we call them in England. If you remove the > two pins you can slide the valve block off the end of the shaft and then > remove the diaphram and piston. If you inspect the diaphram where it is in > contact with the shaft, you will find that it has worn. The best way of > describing it is that the contact edge of the diaphram should look like and > oil seal with a raised edge on the internal diameter. What I did with mine > was to find an O ring and bond it with an epoxy resin to the diaphram so it > made a new contact surface to the diaphram. Also at this stage there is a > nylon washer that also causes wear, you will need to check that. Prior to > reassembly I coated the shaft liberally with rubber grease thats used in > brake cylinders, etc. > > Please bear in mind that this is only a temporary repair, even though the > epoxy resin I used had a 1200 psi tension. I repaired the brake booster 18 > months ago and its still working as good as new now.. > > When the brake booster is disassembled, only use alcohol to clean the brake > parts and poppet valves and the inside of the actual cylinder. > > Hope this is of help. > > Dave > 60 Le Baron > England > -----Original Message----- > From: mopar2@xxxxxxxxxx <mopar2@xxxxxxxxxx> > To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> > Date: 13 April 2002 14:34 > Subject: Re: IML: Raffi's 62 Brakes > > >The combination of the hissing & rough idle suggests a vacumm leak.Check > the > >hoses from the booster to the manifold for possible leaks, if none there, > it > >could be the booster. Many have said that once brake fluid gets on the > linings, > >its impossible to remove it all & problems will result, but this doesn't > sound > >related to your current problem. > >John > > > >Raffi Kondy wrote: > > > >> Hey list, > >> > >> I recently had my wheel cylinders replaced because the originals were > >> leaking brake fluid, and my neighborhood mechanic, a very experienced > >> mechanic at that, put them in but noticed a problem. He said that when > he > >> tested the brakes, after coming to a stop with the pedal fully engaged, > the > >> brakes seem > >> to disengage a little, and the car moves forward slightly until you apply > >> more pressure to the brake pedal. He seems to think the problem might > >> be in the brake shoes, which got a little wet from the brake fluid > leaking > >> on them, but which he cleaned and checked and seems to think are ok. He > >> believes that everything else is ok on the brakes. I tested the car, and > >> felt like the brakes are better now than whenever I had driven the car > >> before (I have been driving it about 9 months now), but I did notice > >> what he was talking about. I don't think that this is dangerous, but it > >> seems odd that when you push down on the brake pedal and the car stops, > >> its as if you need to push down a second time to keep the car from moving > >> slightly. > >> I know I'm not doing a great job of describing this problem, because it > >> really needs to be experienced to be understood. > >> Could the problem lie with the brake vacuum booster? Maybe it leaks > >> and doesn't give the full boost when you put your foot down on the pedal > all > >> the way. It does seem to hiss a little when the car is in N and you > >> push the pedal down all the way to the bottom. Anyway, if you have ever > had > >> this problem, maybe you could help. > >> > >> Also, I had the mechanic check the choke and the carb, the car wasn't > >> idling properly, and he changed the idle speed to about 700, which seems > >> a bit high according to specifications. Is this unwise? It feels better > >> than before. Thanks, > >> > >> Raffi in SF > >> 62 Crown Coupe > >> > >> ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com ----------------- > >> This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please > >> reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be > >> shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the > >> Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > >> To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm > > > > > >